Even motorists, for whom weight is not critical, often prefer a tourist tent to a camping tent: it is faster to set up, it takes less space on the ground and it is easier to find a clearing.
The tents presented in our store have awnings made of waterproof fabric, so they can withstand any bad weather. For extra wind resistance, use guy wires with pegs.
We have prepared a detailed analysis of the designs of tents and the materials from which they are made. We will explain for what purposes certain functions are needed, what is better and in what case, why. This will help you choose what you need.
Which tent is right for you?
The answer depends on the answer to another question: what type of outdoor recreation do you prefer?
If you like equipped campsites with car parking, then you can safely take a large tent.
A camping tent is a large tall tent, often with a vestibule and windows. Designed for autotourism, family holidays and overnight stays in one place for 3–4 days. Pros: comfortable conditions (you can stand upright), large capacity. Cons: heavy weight, poor warm-up.
Large camping tent
If you are planning a long hike or bike trip, the weight and size of the shelter are important considerations. You will need a trekking tent.
A trekking tent is a small tent used for flat hiking, camping along hiking trails. Pros: Lightweight, easy to carry. Cons: not designed for strong winds and rain.
Trekking tent
The dimensions and weight of the tent become even more important when hiking in the mountains or over rough terrain. Here you need an assault tent.
An assault (or high-mountain) tent is an ultra-light tent designed for serious hikes (difficult route, long transitions). Pros: very light and reliable, not afraid of strong winds, quickly installed and assembled. Cons: as a rule, small (even for one person it can be cramped).
Storm tent, Konstantin Shishkin/Shutterstock.com
6. Vestibule entrances — compact or spacious on the arc
The comfort of the tent depends on the number and area of the vestibules — in the spacious one you can place a dining room, and in the small one — only shoes or a backpack. If the tent has two entrances, flow ventilation is created in it. And it’s also more convenient to get in and out: you don’t have to climb through all the neighbors. But with an increase in the number and size of vestibules, the weight, assembly time and price of the tent increase.
Tambours are big and small.
Triangular tambour
The lightest and most budget option, suitable for hiking. The design is stretched with one peg, the entrance is with one zipper. In the vestibule you can put a backpack, dishes after dinner, shoes.
Of the minuses — you leave the inner tent, stick your head out, and it turns out to be on the street. If it rains there, it immediately drips on you. You either have to put up with this, or go camping only in good weather. Or you can stretch a group tent over the entrance.
There are usually one or two such vestibules in a tent.
The pull-out vestibule is small — it can accommodate a backpack, shoes, burner utensils
Tambour on an additional arc
A separate arc is located in front of the entrance and holds the vestibule. This option is heavier, but more comfortable. It will take a little longer to assemble the tent, it is more suitable for a stationary camp.
It is more convenient to go out of the inner tent in the rain — there is a roof over your head. Such a vestibule is much more spacious than a triangular one, and can accommodate more things.
The photo of the RockLand Pamir‑3 tent clearly shows how such a vestibule is arranged. Usually closes with two parallel zippers, forming a wide entrance
Another option — an additional arc is separated from the inner tent — the vestibule turns out to be large, in the form of a tunnel (that’s what it is called). In this you can not only fold things, but also dine in bad weather.
In the vestibule of the GreenLand Traveler‑3 tent, not only a dog, but also a person will fit
Tents with a tambour usually have a second entrance with a small triangular tambour. This makes it possible to make the air flow through on a hot day.
Example — GreenLand West‑3 tent — two vestibules, one on a separate arc — through ventilation
The half-shell tent has an additional arc that holds the vestibule. It has more space, you can put a few backpacks, leave your bike or have lunch in bad weather.
High and spacious vestibule of the RockLand Pipe‑3 tent
Tambours on a short cantilever arc
At the hemisphere tent, at the top of the dome, there is a short arc that makes the vestibule higher. It is more spacious than the usual sling. This is an intermediate option between a triangular vestibule and a vestibule on a separate arc.
In the BTrace Vang‑3 tent, it does not drip on the head when leaving :-))
Places for gatherings are not added, but when exiting, it does not drip on the head. The most important thing is that the weight does not increase much. These tents are also set up quickly. Therefore, they are popular for hiking and cycling. There are always two tambours.
This is how the cantilever arc looks like on the example of the BTrace Cloud‑3 tent
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What is the seasonality of the tent?
Beginners mistakenly believe that if you divide tents by season, then there should be spring, summer, autumn and winter. Actually distinguish:
- Summer tents. For warm or hot weather. An important point here is ventilation: the fabric is well blown, and the edge of the awning, as a rule, is raised above the ground. But such a tent will not save you from strong winds or rain.
- Three season tents. The name speaks for itself — they are designed for three main hiking seasons (spring, summer, autumn). They are made of a denser fabric, thanks to which they can withstand both cold demi-season winds and heavy rains.
- Winter (or all-season) tents. Designed for use in difficult climatic conditions (snow, wind), but can also be used in summer in calm weather. Differ in stability of a design, dense waterproof material.
About appointment
We will analyze here only the choice of a tourist (trekking) tent. These are tents used by travelers, tourists, cyclists, hikers, fishermen, hunters and other mobile people. You can carry such tents with you for many days, quickly put them up, quickly dismantle them. Actually, the entire article “How to choose a tourist tent” is dedicated to them.
How to decide on the size?
A boa constrictor in a famous cartoon was measured by parrots, and tents are measured by men. Many have heard: single tent, double, triple and so on. In the first case, this means that one adult man will comfortably accommodate (with all belongings) in the tent; in the second — two; in the third — three and so on.
“Men are different,” you say. Right. Therefore, to get a clearer idea of the dimensions of the tent, before buying, study its length and width on the Internet. Then “recreate” these dimensions on your floor, take a sleeping bag and try to fit into the resulting square. Managed? You can take! Not? It may be worth buying a two- or three-person tent.
An example of the dimensions of a single tent, cm
Number of seats
When choosing a tent, consider the size of the bed per person: about 60 cm wide is calculated for one. The mats are the same size, so if you are in doubt about whether the dimensions of the tent will fit, just check how many mats will fit.
There are also models with two or more rooms, which allows you to comfortably accommodate two, three or four people in each. But these options are large, so you need to find out in advance whether there is enough space for installation where you are going to relax.
How many layers to choose?
Depending on the design, tents are divided into single-layer and double-layer.
In the first case, the tent is made of a waterproof awning and is a single canvas. It is easy to fold and install. But there is a significant drawback — condensate. In humid or hot weather, it inevitably forms on the inner walls. If you do not provide ventilation, you will wake up in a wet sleeping bag. Fortunately, scientists are actively working on a solution to this problem — they come up with various “breathable” and at the same time windproof fabrics. Tents with membrane awnings are already on the market, but they are quite expensive.
A two-layer tent consists of a waterproof tent (outer layer) and a light, breathable tent (inner layer). Between them, as a rule, there is a 10–15 cm gap. Such a tent is somewhat heavier, but condensate does not accumulate in it, while it is reliably protected from rain.
Another advantage of double-layer tents is the presence of a vestibule.
Tambour — additional space under the outer awning of the tent. Serves for storing things and dirty shoes.
Mosquito net entrances and through ventilation windows
In high-quality tourist tents, ventilation is carried out through doors and windows. The windows are on top of the dome of the inner tent.
For better ventilation it is necessary that the windows are large.
There are adjustable ventilation valves on the awning — they are usually open. They have to be closed if oblique rain begins with the wind, so as not to flood inside.
It is better to close the ventilation valve on the roof of the tent if it starts to rain heavily.
Ventilation works like this: fresh air enters the tent from below, passing between the tent and the ground. And the heated air rises up, under the dome of the awning, and exits through the ventilation holes.
If you had to find yourself on a hillock blown by all the winds in cold weather, the heat will blow out of the tent through the ventilation. Throw a jacket, T‑shirt, bicycle cover over the ventilation windows on top of the dome of the inner tent (under the awning) and reduce their area.
In hot weather, ventilation is also carried out through the doors. They are duplicated with an anti-mosquito net — it saves from insects. The mesh cells are small, so midges and midges will not fly through them. The structure is supported by a double zipper — one opens the tent door, the second holds the net.
When it’s hot, the door fabric can be unfastened and only the mesh is left.
If there are two exits in the tent, the doors can be opened, leaving a net on them — through ventilation is obtained. At the same time, thanks to the mesh on the doors, insects will not get to you.
In tourist tents for a stationary camp, a mesh can duplicate the door to the vestibule.
When you are going to dine in such a vestibule, midges and mosquitoes will not interfere with you
In some tourist tents, a “skirt” is sewn to the awning — it performs two functions:
- prevents insects from flying under the awning;
- warm in windy and cold weather.
The “skirt” may have eyelets through which it is pinned to the ground with a peg so that it does not flutter
But the “skirt” covers the ventilation gap between the ground and the awning. Therefore, when it is hot, the skirt must be tucked up.
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What material to give preference?
Poly Taffeta 210T 3000 PU is not a magic spell, but seeing a similar inscription in the description of the tent, an inexperienced tourist can fall into a trance. What do all these numbers and letters mean?
In fact, everything is simple. In the manufacture of tents, two types of fabrics are used:
- polyamide (Nylon);
- polyester (Polyester).
The first ones are quite durable and very affordable, but at the same time they are easily stretchable when wet and sensitive to ultraviolet radiation. The second ones are even more durable and at the same time do not tear when wet, but are more expensive. Thus, the first word in the tent label (Poly) means that it is made of polyester material.
Taffeta is the most common way to weave thread. In addition to it, there is also Oxford (creates additional strength and, as a rule, is used for the bottom of the tent) and Rip Stop (increases strength due to the reinforced thread, while not weighing down the weight).
The next element (210T) is the density of weaving. It is measured in tex and affects the strength of the material. The more T, the denser, stronger and heavier the fabric. In addition, the marking of the tent may contain numbers and the letter D. This indicates the thickness of the threads from which the material is made. This indicator also affects the strength and weight of the tent.
Finally, PU means that the fabric is impregnated with polyurethane, making it water resistant. There is also silicone impregnation (SI), it is better and more durable, but also more expensive.
The material is coated with polyurethane from the inside. At the same time, two layers of PU impregnation ensure water resistance of 3,000 mm of water column; three layers — 5,000 mm. The silicone coating is applied on the outside. Here, an acceptable level of water resistance is 2,000 mm.
So, which material should you choose? If you do not get out into nature often and at the same time stick to well-worn hiking trails, then a nylon tent with Taffeta or Rip Stop weaving and a density of 190t to 210t is quite suitable for you. A good addition to this would be silicone water-repellent impregnation.
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What should be the bottom of the tent?
Strong, strong and once again strong! The bottom of the tent is the hardest: you put it on sharp stones, on snow, on sand.
As a rule, the bottom is made of the same material as the outer awning. Nylon fabrics with Oxford weave are suitable for this, with a weave density of at least 210T and a thread thickness of at least 210D. But the main indicator is water resistance. It is desirable that the bottom material can withstand from 5,000 mm of water column.
Sometimes the bottom is also made of reinforced polyethylene (it is designated PE, tarpauling). This material is practically waterproof, quite affordable, but much heavier than polyester and nylon.
In addition, many tents have a so-called skirt, which prevents wind from blowing in and precipitation from getting between the inner and outer awning.
The skirt is an additional strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent. Can be attached or removable.
It makes sense to buy a tent with a skirt if you are going on a winter hike: it will provide additional warmth. For trekking summer tents, a skirt is an unnecessary burden. Because of it, only condensation will accumulate.
The weight
In hiking expeditions, this parameter becomes one of the most important. Here every gram counts: hardly anyone wants to carry an extra load.
Some manufacturers indicate two values in the characteristics:
- Minimum — a complete set sufficient to assemble a shelter.
- Maximum — includes spare pegs, a repair kit, a carrying case, and other elements that it is quite possible to do without. However, on a long journey, they will almost certainly be needed.
It is clear that the more capacious and reliable design, the heavier it is. Affects the weight and the presence of internal pockets, shelves and other details.
But we must not forget about the operating conditions: if you take an ultralight summer model into the winter forest, you will surely regret it.
Half-ribbon
As a rule, a large and roomy tent (often with a vestibule). The arcs of such a tent are parallel to each other and do not intersect with each other. It is not particularly resistant and will not withstand any bad weather. This design is often found in camping tents.
Half barrel tent
small house
Gable tents in the form of a house are considered classics. Rain and snow roll off them easily, but the wind resistance of the design leaves much to be desired. In addition, this type of tent is considered the most troublesome in terms of installation.
Tent “house”
In addition, solo tourists quite often prefer single frameless tents. They are light and compact, in fact it is just an awning attached to trees with ropes or held on several racks (usually sticks).
frameless tent
Types of frame — internal or external
The frame can be external or internal. The order of installation of the tent, the convenience of its assembly and wind resistance depend on this.
Most tents have inner frame — He is under the awning. Therefore, first an inner tent is put up on the frame, then an awning is thrown over. This design is easier and faster to assemble than with an outer frame.
With experience, setting up an ordinary tourist tent, even alone, takes about five minutes. In the rain, you can always find a window when it weakens and quickly set up a tent. Practice shows that in most cases the living compartment does not have time to get wet. If the skill to quickly assemble has not yet been developed, you can do this under a group tent, and then rearrange it to the right place to protect the inner tent from water.
The PIK-99 Joy-3D tent with an internal frame made of duralumin and two vestibules is an example of the easiest tent to set up. Suitable for any type of hike
With outer frame arcs are inserted into the pockets of the awning, sewn on the outside.
The RockLand Pipe‑3 tent is an example of an outdoor frame tent. In the rain, you will hang the inner tent “under the roof”
First, an awning is set up, then the inner tent is hung. Mountain tents are made with such a frame — they are more wind resistant. The outer frame is comfortable in the rain, you can put up a tent without getting wet inside. The wind will also not interfere with the installation — the awning is fixed and will not flutter like a raincoat.
But a tent with an outer frame is more difficult to set up and take down. The arcs must be carefully pushed into the pockets: if you rush and try to drag them through, the sections are disconnected.
If your inner tent is damp, then in a tent with an outer frame it is not easy to dry it in field conditions: you need to detach it from the awning and hang it on a tree. At a tent with an outer frame, it is much simpler: we waited for the weather, removed the tent, dried it, threw the awning over. And do not take things out of the living compartment.
As you can see, it is impossible to say unequivocally that a tent with an outer frame is better than an inner one. Although such a myth exists :-))
Therefore, for ordinary tourist tents, the outer frame is rarely used. But in camping — often, because they are installed once every few days and an increase in installation time is not important. The dryness of the build in the rain and the increase in wind resistance with their large sizes are clear pluses.
The BTrace Dome‑3 tent with an outer frame can be assembled in the rain without getting the living compartment wet
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Buying and Operating Tips
Now you know enough about tents to make a purchase. But do not rush to run to the mall or open an online store website. There are a few tricks to help you save money.
- Old models of well-known brands are no worse than their new models, but much cheaper.
- Do not be afraid to buy tents from little-known companies, the main thing is that the specification is true.
- Read reviews, consult with friends, if possible, test this or that tent in action before buying (for example, borrow from a friend).
Having bought a tent, do not rush to immediately go to the forest. To get started, assemble it at home to understand how it works, and on a hike, assemble and disassemble it quickly and easily. After that, go over the seams with a water-repellent spray to be sure to protect against moisture. And in order for the tent to serve you for a long time, upon returning from a hike, do not forget to dry it thoroughly.
conclusions
Choosing a tent first of all:
- think about where and how you will use it: camping
- tourism
- extreme
Now you imagine what you need, it remains only to come to the store and ask the consultant about the features of the models that you have chosen. Good luck with your choice and more travels!
Review of one of the first tents that I chose, read here.