If mul­ti­cook­er not turn­ing on this arti­cle may help you. We will tell you about how to repair a mul­ti­cook­er with your own hands and reduce the cost of this process.

The device and principle of operation of the multicooker

The device and principle of operation of the multicooker

Before talk­ing about how to trou­bleshoot mul­ti­cook­ers, you should know that all home mul­ti­cook­er pro­grams are trade secrets of man­u­fac­tur­ers. Mul­ti­cook­ers are based on the instal­la­tion of two sen­sors, thanks to which they under­stand what is required of them. Many crafts­men sug­gest­ed that the board con­tained a mem­o­ry of the tem­per­a­ture and dura­tion of indi­vid­ual oper­a­tions and spec­i­fied pro­grams. Thanks to these data, the heat­ing ele­ment (heat­ing ele­ment) is being pro­grammed. Sen­sors installed in the mul­ti­cook­er:

  1. Ther­mis­tor. It is installed on the main but­ton of the device. Its dis­man­tling is a rather painstak­ing task, for the rea­son that man­u­fac­tur­ers cat­e­gor­i­cal­ly oppose repairs by self-taught and work­shops, leav­ing it only to war­ran­ty ser­vices. Com­pa­ny Red­mond went even fur­ther, they filled all the ter­mi­nals with a com­pound, mak­ing it impos­si­ble to dis­man­tle the remov­able ter­mi­nals.
  2. The sec­ond sen­sor is installed inside the cov­er. To gain access to it, you need to make a lot of effort, so we do not rec­om­mend that you take it on if you are not con­fi­dent in your abil­i­ties. It is nec­es­sary to remove the required con­nec­tor with­out pay­ing atten­tion to the com­pound, and then start the mul­ti­cook­er. If after turn­ing on the mul­ti­cook­er does not work, then you have found the cause of the break­down. In order to be 100% sure of this, it is nec­es­sary to mea­sure the resis­tance of the sen­sor com­ing from the wires and the cov­er using a mul­ti­me­ter. In Red­mond devices, cables are locat­ed in the loop area under a remov­able cov­er. In order to take mea­sure­ments, you need to unscrew the screw, then care­ful­ly remove the shield and remove the wiring from it, then turn on the mul­ti­cook­er while mea­sur­ing the resis­tance.

As fol­lows from the above, for prop­er oper­a­tion, the mul­ti­cook­er needs to take read­ings from two sen­sors. They trans­mit their sig­nal to the con­trol ter­mi­nal of the board via two wires. As a rule, the board itself is installed under the but­ton pan­el. The next pos­si­ble prob­lem could be the pow­er sup­ply. In order to make sure that it is work­ing prop­er­ly, you need to con­nect the mul­ti­cook­er to the mains, if at least one of the indi­ca­tors lights up, it fol­lows that every­thing is in order with your pow­er sup­ply. Oth­er­wise, it must be replaced.

Mul­ti­cook­er con­trol is divid­ed into mechan­i­cal and touch. If mechan­i­cal con­trol is installed in the mul­ti­cook­er, then microswitch­es are built into the print­ed cir­cuit board. By count­ing the num­ber of “clo­sures”, the micro­cir­cuit selects relat­ed para­me­ters for per­form­ing oper­a­tions. All this func­tions thanks to just one wiring. The begin­ning of the process of pro­gram exe­cu­tion is car­ried out by means of trans­mis­sion of only one sig­nal. How­ev­er, for this it is nec­es­sary to use a large num­ber of func­tion­ing con­trol boards installed in the mul­ti­cook­er. The sig­nal is con­stant and is need­ed to turn the tran­sis­tor on or off. Thanks to the volt­age sta­bi­liz­er, over­sat­u­ra­tion can­not occur on the con­tact fields.

See also - Do-it-your­self mul­ti­cook­er repair

Switching power supply

Switching power supply

Let’s talk in detail about how exact­ly it is arranged. Its design includes a trans­former, pre-wound with elec­tri­cal tape, so that the con­tact does not fall off, it is occa­sion­al­ly filled with a com­pound. In order to pro­tect the trans­former from input rip­ples, an input fil­ter is pro­vid­ed in the design. The mul­ti­cook­er itself does not cre­ate pul­sa­tions. The trans­former pro­vides for the instal­la­tion of two wind­ings in par­al­lel con­nec­tion. The use of two wind­ings increas­es the reli­a­bil­i­ty of the device.

If Mul­ti­cook­er won’t turn on it is nec­es­sary to mea­sure the resis­tance of the trans­former, it is not nec­es­sary to dis­as­sem­ble the device, since the relay is open in the dis­as­sem­bled state. The resis­tance between the plug and the input ter­mi­nals must be low. The trans­former is fol­lowed by a two-peri­od rec­ti­fi­er of four diodes. After it, an addi­tion­al fil­ter is pro­vid­ed in the pow­er sup­ply from the largest resis­tor with a capac­i­tor. Next, an emit­ter fol­low­er with a sta­bi­liz­er and a resis­tor is installed, which is designed to select the oper­at­ing point.

Be sure to pay atten­tion to the small gap of the dou­ble wire, which is locat­ed in the area of ​​the fuse. This part of the design is respon­si­ble for sup­ply­ing 220V cur­rent to the device, con­nect­ing to the relay. The main board is installed in the device with the ele­ments down, if the cur­rent exceeds the lim­it val­ue, the cop­per wire will sim­ply melt and drain to the bot­tom of the unit, which is com­plete­ly unpro­tect­ed from this. If, when remov­ing the main board, you notice this kur­to­sis, then this means that a short cir­cuit has occurred some­where inside the device. These dam­ages may indi­cate the loss of per­for­mance of the heat­ing ele­ment of the mul­ti­cook­er. But do not imme­di­ate­ly take on the restora­tion of the jumper.

When mea­sur­ing the resis­tance of a heat­ing ele­ment, its oper­at­ing val­ue fluc­tu­ates around 30 ohms.

To check the oper­a­tion of the relay, you must con­nect the device to the mains and turn on any of the pre-installed pro­grams on the mul­ti­cook­er. If a click occurs while the device is turned on, then this is a sig­nal that every­thing is in order, oth­er­wise it is nec­es­sary to grad­u­al­ly replace the relay and con­trol cir­cuit. In order to diag­nose a mal­func­tion of the lat­ter, it is nec­es­sary to apply volt­age to the mid­dle ter­mi­nal (tran­sis­tor) along the white wire. Then mea­sure the out­put volt­age. How­ev­er, it is worth not­ing that man­u­fac­tur­ers like to fill every­thing with a com­pound, so be care­ful.

See also:

Consider cases of thermal fuse failure

What is a ther­mal fuse? This is a small cylin­dri­cal piece of wire, which in its exter­nal shape may remind you of a resis­tor. The oper­at­ing tem­per­a­ture of the device is 170 ° Cel­sius, and the cur­rent ranges from 10 to 15 amperes, depend­ing on the installed ele­ment. If one of the para­me­ters exceeds the norm, the ther­mal fuse will burn out, which breaks the elec­tri­cal cir­cuit and stops the oper­a­tion of the device.

You could set out to make such a fuse your­self. First of all, it is not worth deny­ing that these prod­ucts are easy to man­u­fac­ture, but it fol­lows from this that the price for them will be quite low. Sec­ond­ly, it is desir­able to install exact­ly the orig­i­nal ele­ments. A fac­to­ry copy has cer­tain fixed char­ac­ter­is­tics, cal­cu­lat­ed in pro­duc­tion from the very begin­ning, and a copy made by one­self may have dif­fer­ent char­ac­ter­is­tics from it, which can lead to bad con­se­quences. In the worst case, using a home­made part can end up in a fire for you.

Thermal fuse replacement process

Thermal fuse replacement process

Get­ting to the loca­tion of this part is not too dif­fi­cult, first you need to remove the saucepan from the cav­i­ty of the device. Under it you will find a met­al ele­ment sim­i­lar to a mush­room, the “leg” of which is attract­ed by a spring. Under it are ther­mal fus­es, usu­al­ly they are installed in sev­er­al pieces and cov­ered with cam­bric.

Cam­bric is a plas­tic con­duc­tive insu­la­tion ele­ment, in most cas­es white, used to pro­tect the junc­tions of var­i­ous com­po­nents and areas.

In order to attach the ele­ment, it is nec­es­sary to per­form fir­ing. The use of a sol­der­ing iron for these pur­pos­es is strict­ly pro­hib­it­ed. The heat­ing ele­ment of the sol­der­ing iron will burn through the heat-sen­si­tive ele­ment with­out much effort and dif­fi­cul­ty.

To deter­mine the integri­ty and per­for­mance of one or more ele­ments, you must use a mul­ti­me­ter. It is not nec­es­sary to remove the part, after detect­ing a mal­func­tion, elim­i­nate it accord­ing to the above exam­ple.

A little about Redmond

Mul­ti­cook­er Red­mond It also has ther­mal fus­es that pro­tect the device from over­heat­ing. These parts do an excel­lent job with the func­tion assigned to them, but there is one very sig­nif­i­cant BUT — they are able to do this only once. After that, you will have to seek the help of a spe­cial­ist in a ser­vice cen­ter. Here is an extract from the Red­mond war­ran­ty card: “a prod­uct with ther­mal and oth­er dam­age caused by improp­er oper­a­tion of the device is not a war­ran­ty case.” Since it is not uncom­mon for own­ers to turn on devices with­out a saucepan, this is quite impor­tant to know. How­ev­er, a but­ton is installed in the device, which, in the­o­ry, should pre­vent the device from turn­ing on with­out it, but it sim­ply does not work at Red­mond.

If, by neg­li­gence or for­get­ful­ness, you did not set the saucepan in place and poured the ingre­di­ents into it, poured the required amount of liq­uid and for­got to unplug the device, and then remove all mois­ture and food with paper tow­els, but the device stopped work­ing, accord­ing to the man­u­fac­tur­ers, the fault will be lie on you. This is jus­ti­fied by the fact that the guar­an­tee does not apply to get­ting these things into the cav­i­ty of the device, and you will have to pay for expen­sive repairs out of your own pock­et.

See also - Which brand of mul­ti­cook­er is bet­ter to choose: Philips, Red­mond or Moulinex

Device chips

Device chips

In typ­i­cal mod­els, two elec­tron­ic boards are installed:

  1. Con­trol fee.
  2. Pow­er board.

The sec­ond is locat­ed on the bot­tom of the device, but to get to the loca­tion of the first item, you will have to suf­fer a lit­tle and com­plete­ly dis­as­sem­ble the device, while dis­man­tling the inner cylin­dri­cal sur­face.

After you have tak­en every­thing apart, you need to exam­ine the boards for the pres­ence of:

  • chips;
  • black­ened resis­tors;
  • vio­la­tion of sol­der seams;
  • swollen capac­i­tors;
  • and soot.

In case of detec­tion of such defects, it is nec­es­sary to replace the ele­ments with new ones. Restor­ing bro­ken sol­der­ing should not cause you much dif­fi­cul­ty. It is nec­es­sary to car­ry out the process of restor­ing the tracks by clean­ing them by tin­ning dam­age and zero sand­ing. You may need to add some jumpers, which you can make from the legs of the resis­tors. After per­form­ing all oper­a­tions, it is nec­es­sary to cov­er every­thing with var­nish to ensure the pro­tec­tion of the device from leak­age and expo­sure to oxy­gen.

See also - How to use the mul­ti­cook­er cor­rect­ly


If you have Mul­ti­cook­er won’t turn on do not imme­di­ate­ly head­long to car­ry it to the ser­vice. All break­downs are most often due to improp­er oper­a­tion of the device. In the case when you prop­er­ly oper­ate the device, it can work for many years and make your life eas­i­er. In order to fix all the prob­lems, you must fol­low the above instruc­tions and with com­mon sense, you can eas­i­ly fix the mul­ti­cook­er. How­ev­er, remem­ber that if your device is under war­ran­ty, it is best to con­tact a ser­vice cen­ter.

See also: