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Today, the use of an auto­mat­ic wash­ing machine is quite a com­mon thing. But, like any tech­nol­o­gy, it some­times fails. One of the most dif­fi­cult break­downs in a wash­ing machine is the “devel­op­ment” of the oil seal and bear­ing and their replace­ment. Despite the fact that this type of repair is quite dif­fi­cult, many home crafts­men can do it.

If you decide to get to the bear­ing and seal your­self, this arti­cle will def­i­nite­ly come in handy.

What is an omentum and where is it located?

Stuff­ing box — this is a part that serves as a seal between the two halves of the mech­a­nism. One of these parts is fixed per­ma­nent­ly, and the oth­er is mov­able. Most often, the gland is made of rub­ber. Thus, it makes the con­nec­tion not only tight, but also air­tight.

front loading drum

As you already under­stood, an oil seal is also present in the wash­ing machine. Where is he locat­ed? For exam­ple, let’s con­sid­er a “wash­er” with a front-load­ing type of laun­dry. The drum of such units is locat­ed on a spe­cial brack­et, in the mid­dle of which there is a semi-axis made of steel. The drum and tank of the wash­ing machine are attached to the axle shaft through bear­ings. This is where you need to look for the seal. It is locat­ed not on the shaft itself, but on a spe­cial bronze bush­ing. This “cou­ple” ensures the nor­mal oper­a­tion of the unit and pro­tects the bear­ing from water ingress. Such pro­tec­tion is very impor­tant, because when mois­ture enters the bear­ing, it quick­ly col­laps­es and becomes rusty.

See also - How to remove or dis­as­sem­ble the wash­ing machine drum at home

Why does the seal fail

As you already under­stood, the gland is an inter­me­di­ary between the drum and the shaft on which it is mount­ed. Dur­ing rota­tion, the shaft is in con­stant con­tact with the inside of the stuff­ing box. From the result­ing fric­tion, the part wears out rather quick­ly. To pre­vent this from hap­pen­ing, the oil seal must cer­tain­ly be well lubri­cat­ed.

How­ev­er, no mat­ter how won­der­ful the lubri­cant is, under the action of soapy water seep­ing through dur­ing wash­ing, it is grad­u­al­ly washed away. The stuff­ing box dries up and begins to pass water to the bear­ing, which also becomes unus­able.

Oil seal replacement

If, when the drum of the wash­ing machine rotates, a rat­tle and a “crunch of sand” are heard, then it is time to replace the bear­ings. The seal will also need to be replaced.

Changing the seal of a washing machine

In most mod­els of wash­ing machines, to per­form such repairs, the unit will have to be dis­as­sem­bled almost com­plete­ly.

Impor­tant:

Atten­tion! If you are not sure that you can repro­duce the assem­bly process cor­rect­ly or you are doing it for the first time, take pic­tures of each step or draw con­nec­tion dia­grams.

  • First you have to remove the top pan­el, and then remove the back and front walls of the wash­ing machine.
  • Now you need to care­ful­ly remove the coun­ter­weights (they are heavy) and dis­con­nect the damp­ing springs.
  • Care­ful­ly dis­con­nect all elec­tron­ic and mechan­i­cal con­trols. Try to remem­ber where which wire leads, so as not to get con­fused dur­ing assem­bly.
  • So we got to the tank. Remove it and “split” into two halves.
  • After you have done all the above steps, you can see the place where the bear­ings are locat­ed, and, accord­ing­ly, the oil seal.

Before replac­ing them, care­ful­ly inspect the cross and shaft. If the wash­ing machine has been oper­at­ing in emer­gency mode for a long time, chips or cracks may appear on these parts. In this case, even a new gland will not hold water and the repair will be use­less.

washing machine oil seal

If every­thing is in order, remove the bear­ings. They just need to be knocked out with a ham­mer and a blunt chis­el. This must be done very care­ful­ly so as not to dam­age the tank. Most often, the oil seal falls out along with the bear­ing. If this does not hap­pen, the gland must be care­ful­ly removed with a flat screw­driv­er. Using the same screw­driv­er, care­ful­ly clean the bear­ing loca­tions. It is nec­es­sary to remove all dirt and residues from the bro­ken part.

Before installing new bear­ings, the attach­ment points must be care­ful­ly lubri­cat­ed with Litol or anoth­er suit­able sub­stance.

Now all actions are per­formed in reverse order. We install a new oil seal and bear­ings, care­ful­ly press­ing them in from where you took them out. Be sure to thor­ough­ly lubri­cate the parts. Now you need to assem­ble the tank and put it in place.

How to lubricate the seal?

If you decide to replace the oil seal and bear­ings your­self, you should pay close atten­tion to such a process as lubri­ca­tion. For this, it is best to use spe­cial lubri­cants rec­om­mend­ed by the man­u­fac­tur­er.

First of all, grease is applied to the out­side of the stuff­ing box. There is a fair­ly even thin lay­er. Then we move on to the inside. There is no need to save lubri­cant here, because it is in this part that the great­est fric­tion will be observed.

bearing and seal lubrication before installation

Since a spe­cial grease for an oil seal can be quite expen­sive, many crafts­men use Soli­dol, Litol, Azmol and oth­er options used in car repairs. It’s bet­ter not to. Although such a lubri­cant costs an order of mag­ni­tude cheap­er, the sav­ings here are rather doubt­ful. The fact is that “non-core” sub­stances soft­en the rub­ber from which the gland is made. As a result, it col­laps­es much faster and after a year or two you will have to replace it again.

Choosing the right lubricant

There are sev­er­al cri­te­ria that can influ­ence the selec­tion of a good oil seal lubri­cant. To meet all the require­ments, it must be:

  • heat-resis­tant — due to fric­tion between the shaft and the stuff­ing box, it heats up, the lubri­cant must not lose its qual­i­ties when the tem­per­a­ture ris­es;
  • mois­ture resis­tant — water peri­od­i­cal­ly gets on the stuff­ing box along with the wash­ing pow­der dis­solved in it;
  • non-aggres­sive — the cor­rect lubri­cant should not react with the rub­ber from which the oil seal is made;
  • thick — the cor­rect con­sis­ten­cy of the sub­stance should be such that it does not flow out dur­ing oper­a­tion.

It is best to use a spe­cial sil­i­cone lubri­cant for work. Tita­ni­um will work too. They meet all the nec­es­sary require­ments. It is best to pur­chase them at a spe­cial­ized out­let, one that sells spare parts for wash­ing machines. If the “sil­i­cone” is not on sale, an expe­ri­enced sell­er will tell you how to replace it.

See also:

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