Staircase to the mezzanineView of the mez­za­nine. Stair­case with rail­ings
Staircase to the mezzanineStair­case with cen­tral stringer. The steps are fixed on hor­i­zon­tal plat­forms, sawn in a bar
Staircase to the mezzanineView of the stairs from below. Pow­er­ful stringer sup­ports every step
Staircase to the mezzanineFin­ished con­struc­tion before fin­ish­ing

Staircase to the mezzanine

Staircase to the mezzanineLand­ing

It is bet­ter to plan the con­struc­tion of the stairs in advance. Then, after arrang­ing the room on the mez­za­nine, you will not face a prob­lem- how to get to the top. A small stair­case with a cen­tral stringer and a land­ing will not clut­ter up the room on the ground floor and can become a dec­o­ra­tion of your inte­ri­or.

Oak, larch, pine wood is suit­able as a mate­r­i­al for this design and its dec­o­ra­tion. The low­er end of the kosour is attached to the floor, andupper- using bolts and dow­els- tobeam sup­port­ing the site struc­ture. The rail­ing enclos­ing the mez­za­nine inter­feres with the trans­fer of fur­ni­ture, so they can be removed for a while.

You will need:

  • A set of tools for wood­work­ing.
  • A cir­cu­lar saw.
  • Drill.
  • Grinder.
  • Bar sec­tion 340190mm (kosour)
  • Planed boards 600250fiftymm (num­ber see draw­ing).
  • oneboard 600350fiftymm (low­er step).
  • Beam 140140mm (base of the land­ing).
  • Beam 110110mm (para­pet post).
  • Beam 900mm (para­pet handrails).
  • Board 120thir­tymm (hor­i­zon­tal para­pet rails and mount­ing brack­ets).
  • Round tim­ber with a diam­e­ter of 40mm (rail­ing).
  • Bolts diam­e­ter 10mm with wash­ers.
  • Dow­el.
  • Clear nail pol­ish.

Making stairs

Before start­ing work, draw a pro­jec­tion of a stair­case with a plat­form on the floor of the room. This life-size draw­ing will allow you to deter­mine the dimen­sions and loca­tion of the stairs, as well as the num­ber of steps. When cal­cu­lat­ing, take into account the length of the stairs, its slope and the most con­ve­nient inter­val between the steps- from160 to200mm. Plat­forms for installing steps, spikes and grooves are shown in the fig­ure. It is bet­ter to start the instal­la­tion of the stairs with the con­struc­tion of the land­ing.


The ele­ments shown in the draw­ing are trans­ferred from paper to the appro­pri­ate lum­ber from which this struc­ture will be built. Spikes and grooves, designed for attach­ing hor­i­zon­tal rails and rail­ing posts, are drawn on a tree and sawn out.

To check and cor­rect any inac­cu­ra­cies, car­ry out a pre­lim­i­nary con­trol assem­bly of the entire struc­ture. After you assem­ble the land­ing, secure the joints with pins or bolts.

In the sup­port beam that sup­ports the plat­form, installed in place, cut the grooves, tak­ing into account the lev­el of the floor. Then lift the plat­form and attach it to the beam with bolts cross­ing the spikes of the plat­form parts. Atten­tion: for the assem­bly and instal­la­tion of this struc­ture, scaf­fold­ing or scaf­fold­ing and the help of a sec­ond per­son are required.


The only sup­port of the stairs is the cen­tral kosour, made of tim­ber with a sec­tion of 340190mm. This one-piece part must be bought at a sawmill or ordered from a spe­cial­ized store, since large dimen­sions are unlike­ly to allow you to make it your­self.

An inclined beam with tri­an­gu­lar grooves should rest against the floor and land­ing. First, these places are marked.


In our case, the cen­tral stringer is made from a sin­gle bar. You can make a sim­i­lar detail your­self by glu­ing two boards and putting them under a press. Then it is nec­es­sary to strength­en the con­nec­tions with trans­verse wood­en dow­els or bolts. When join­ing the boards, make sure to alter­nate the direc­tion of the wood fibers.

Then, with an elec­tric saw or a hand saw, tri­an­gu­lar frag­ments are very care­ful­ly cut out so as to main­tain the par­al­lelism of the floor sur­face and the kosour plat­forms on which the steps will be installed. Pre­lim­i­nar­i­ly, in the cor­ner of each cut, it is nec­es­sary to drill holes with a diam­e­ter of 25mm. They will cor­re­spond to the bot­tom plane of the steps and will help pre­vent parts from mov­ing dur­ing oper­a­tion. The cuts and cor­ners are lev­eled with a rasp or grinder, then the stringer is set in place and attached to the floor and to the plat­form beam using dow­els and bolts with wash­ers recessed into the cham­fers. Steps are made from planed boards. After mark­ing, holes are drilled with cham­fers for fas­ten­ers. Each step is fas­tened with four bolts with wash­ers to the stringer, while their heads are recessed into cham­fers.


The land­ing para­pet con­sists of three pil­lars rein­forced with spikes and grooves. On the racks, handrails and low­er hor­i­zon­tal bars are installed in the same way. Along the edge of the mez­za­nine are remov­able hor­i­zon­tal strips, held on pins insert­ed into the holes of wood­en sup­ports. The lat­ter are mount­ed on ver­ti­cal posts and thus are mount­ing brack­ets.


All parts are sand­ed with medi­um emery, and the cor­ners are smoothed with fine sand­pa­per. Cham­fers with recessed bolt heads are cov­ered with syn­thet­ic mas­tic or wood put­ty of the same col­or as the main struc­ture, and then the entire struc­ture is cov­ered with a lay­er of col­or­less var­nish.

Under the three hor­i­zon­tal rungs of the land­ing, aux­il­iary dec­o­ra­tive beams are bolt­ed, the ends of which are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

The rail­ing nec­es­sary for safe­ty is a round bar with a diam­e­ter of 40mm, fixed on the struc­ture and the side wall with screws.


In order for the struc­ture to com­ply with safe­ty stan­dards, the dis­tance between the handrail and the low­er hor­i­zon­tal bar of the para­pet should be no more than 18see There­fore, it may be nec­es­sary to install sev­er­al rows of such cross­bars.

  • Source: Ideas for Your Home Magazine#9