To make a dry­wall arch with your own hands, you do not need spe­cial skills and pro­fes­sion­al con­struc­tion tools. One per­son can do the job. The shape, size and loca­tion should be thought out in advance, oth­er­wise there will be a risk of mak­ing a mis­take. The most impor­tant detail is the base — a frame made of wood­en slats or a met­al pro­file. It is he who sets all the tech­ni­cal para­me­ters. Not only the appear­ance depends on it, but also the strength. Sheath­ing is the sim­plest stage of repair. Rough and fine fin­ish­ing takes much more time and effort. If you plan to hide pipes or elec­tri­cal wiring under a false wall, you need to fol­low the law. Accord­ing to san­i­tary and tech­ni­cal stan­dards, it is nec­es­sary to ensure con­stant access to them.

All about how to make a drywall arch

Select­ing an instal­la­tion site
Forms and dimen­sions of the struc­ture
Step-by-step instruc­tion

  • What you need to work
  • Foun­da­tion prepa­ra­tion
  • Upper side mount­ing
  • Frame instal­la­tion
  • How to bend a GKL sheet
  • Fin­ish­ing

Where can I make an arch and what to think about before installation

As a rule, a sheathed frame is placed in a door­way or in a cor­ri­dor. This tech­nique is often used when zon­ing a large room, divid­ed by a par­ti­tion. It should be not­ed that cut­ting or expand­ing the pas­sage is not pos­si­ble every­where. There are sec­tions of load-bear­ing walls where this is pro­hib­it­ed. The ban does not apply to par­ti­tions. It is pos­si­ble to remove part of the load-bear­ing wall only after a tech­ni­cal sur­vey and project approval. It is also impor­tant to con­sid­er that the law does not always allow you to leave an open entrance. For exam­ple, a kitchen with a gas stove should be equipped with a door.

Leav­ing a bed­room or office con­stant­ly open is incon­ve­nient if sev­er­al peo­ple live in the apart­ment. Premis­es equipped for work­shops or laun­dries must be closed, oth­er­wise the noise will inter­fere with all res­i­dents. Do not leave per­ma­nent­ly open util­i­ty rooms with high humid­i­ty and pantries where sub­stances with a strong odor are stored. Need­less to say, a sealed door is nec­es­sary if there are gas cylin­ders and can­is­ters of gaso­line behind it.


Instal­la­tion can be car­ried out in the kitchen and bath­room. It should be not­ed that a humid envi­ron­ment has a dev­as­tat­ing effect on the base of wood­en beams. They must be impreg­nat­ed with anti­sep­tics and coat­ed with a lay­er of var­nish that cov­ers the fibrous struc­ture. Alu­minum and gal­va­nized steel are used in any envi­ron­ment. Dam­age to gal­va­niz­ing leads to rapid rust­ing. There­fore, you should be very care­ful dur­ing instal­la­tion. Paint and primer do not pro­vide reli­able pro­tec­tion.

Sheath­ing is not afraid of mois­ture if its edges are reli­ably pro­tect­ed from it. Once in the loose inter­nal struc­ture, mois­ture is eas­i­ly absorbed into it. Over time, mold appears inside, and the walls begin to swell along the edges. Mois­ture resis­tant sheets with a green col­or should be used. Ordi­nary ones will quick­ly fall into dis­re­pair.

Before you make a dry­wall arch with your own hands, you need to think about its fin­ish. In damp areas, open-pore coat­ings should not be used. For exam­ple, if it is planned to line the open­ing with porous plas­ter in a home sauna, this idea will have to be aban­doned.

False walls often serve to mask pipes and elec­tri­cal wiring. Accord­ing to cur­rent tech­ni­cal stan­dards, such struc­tures must be remov­able or open­able. They are equipped with incon­spic­u­ous doors and remov­able pan­els that are mount­ed at the joints of pipes, as well as in places where valves are locat­ed.

The inter­nal space of the frame allows you to place spot­lights. They are placed on top. Lat­er­al arrange­ment is pos­si­ble only when there is free space around the edges. This place­ment is not suit­able for stan­dard pas­sages designed for one leaf.
It is bet­ter to hang switch­es and sock­ets on a con­crete base — the sheath­ing sheets will loosen over time from con­stant mechan­i­cal loads. In addi­tion, an emp­ty box with­out fill­ing is a good res­onator that ampli­fies the sound.


The choice of the shape and size of the arch

The shape of the arch can be any, but usu­al­ly the arch­es are made rec­tan­gu­lar or round­ed. The sides and cor­ners of rec­tan­gles are some­times round­ed, cre­at­ing flex­i­ble sides and smooth­ing the cor­ners. Only one of the faces can be made even by cre­at­ing an inte­ri­or semi-arch.

Rec­tan­gu­lar open­ings are the most com­pact and easy to man­u­fac­ture. They are suit­able for typ­i­cal apart­ments with low ceil­ings and nar­row aisles. At a small height, straight walls and a round­ed top are used — elon­gat­ed or with a con­stant radius. Some­times poly­gons are used, as well as com­bi­na­tions of straight and curved sur­faces, but now this design is no longer rel­e­vant.

Round­ed make not only the upper part, but also the side­walls. This solu­tion is suit­able for enter­ing a spa­cious liv­ing room or a large kitchen in a cot­tage. Depend­ing on the width of the open­ing, the form is pulled up or to the sides.


Width and height are lim­it­ed by the inte­ri­or space. In typ­i­cal apart­ments, the height is usu­al­ly 2 m, the width is from 60 to 80 cm.

For a cor­ri­dor less than 1 m wide, it is bet­ter to install a frame with­out side­walls.

When design­ing a par­ti­tion, the dimen­sions can be any. The load-bear­ing well-rein­forced frame will with­stand even wide sag.

Step by step instructions for building

As an exam­ple, con­sid­er a step-by-step instruc­tion for mak­ing a do-it-your­self semi­cir­cu­lar dry­wall arch with­out side­walls. The tech­nol­o­gy of sheath­ing a met­al and wood­en frame does not dif­fer. We will sep­a­rate­ly ana­lyze the process of mount­ing the base made of alu­minum and nat­ur­al sol­id wood. The rest of the instruc­tions are suit­able for these two tech­nolo­gies.

What you need to work

  • Tape mea­sure, ruler and pen­cil.
  • Screw­driv­er or screw­driv­er.
  • A hack­saw for wood, if a frame made of tim­ber is used, or for met­al, if the base is made of a pro­file. In the sec­ond case, you will also need scis­sors for met­al.
  • Car­pen­try knife.
  • Elec­tric drill.
  • Pro­tec­tive equip­ment — a res­pi­ra­tor, gog­gles and gloves. Instead of a res­pi­ra­tor, it is allowed to use a wet cloth ban­dage.
  • GKL sheets.
  • Pro­file or slats from the array.
  • Self-tap­ping screws and dow­els.
  • Put­ty and tools for its appli­ca­tion.
  • Thin plas­tic mesh for rein­forc­ing the put­ty lay­er.

Foundation preparation

  • The open­ing is cleared of the old fin­ish.
  • Grease stains are removed with an alco­hol solu­tion. Dust is wiped off with a damp cloth.
  • Cracks are expand­ed with a spat­u­la, remov­ing crum­bling edges.
  • The rein­forced con­crete sur­face is treat­ed with an anti­sep­tic to pre­vent mold.
  • Irreg­u­lar­i­ties are sealed with cement mor­tar. Align­ing their part hid­den under the arch is not nec­es­sary.
  • If nec­es­sary, stretch wires for spot­lights.

Upper side mounting

  • We apply mark­ings on the GKL. Before you draw an arch on dry­wall, you need to mea­sure the pas­sage and add to its width the thick­ness of the fin­ish on each side. This will allow you to make a smooth tran­si­tion from the upper semi­cir­cle to the smooth door slopes.
  • The cen­ter of the cir­cle is marked on the sheet and a thin nail is dri­ven into it. A rope or thread is tied to the nail. The radius of the arch is laid on it and a pen­cil is tied at this dis­tance from the cen­ter. It is bet­ter to tie a rope to its bot­tom, it is eas­i­er to draw. Draw­ing a pen­cil with a stretched rope over the sur­face, we get an even cir­cle of the desired size.
  • Saw­ing GKL is bet­ter with a hack­saw spe­cial­ly designed for this. If it is not there, an ordi­nary can­vas with small teeth will do — large ones can tear the edges. Before start­ing work, the mate­r­i­al should be secure­ly fixed on the table. When work­ing, you need to hold the cut piece. When break­ing off, it can tear out sev­er­al cen­time­ters of the side­wall. In total, you will need two side­walls for two sides of the open­ing.

Frame installation

Met­al parts are easy to process and install. They are used more often than wood­en ones.


The mate­r­i­al used is alu­minum or gal­va­nized steel. These can be cor­ners or U‑shaped pro­files.

  • The blanks are cut in height and width. They should form a pro­jec­tion of the vault on the inner sides of the pas­sage. Before you make an arch from a pro­file and dry­wall, you need to find out the height of the ver­ti­cal guides of the met­al struc­ture. The hor­i­zon­tal is equal to the width of the unfin­ished open­ing.
  • Mark­ings for guides are applied to the pre­pared rein­forced con­crete slab. All oth­er details are attached to them, if nec­es­sary. They are assem­bled with screws. Weld­ing is not used.
  • The guides are locat­ed along the edges of the pas­sage with the ver­ti­cal side towards the room. They are applied to the base and holes are drilled in incre­ments of 10 cm. Dow­els are insert­ed into them and screws are screwed in. It is bet­ter to take self-tap­ping screws 5 cm long. Such a frame is enough for light side­walls about 50 cm high and 90 cm wide. For mount­ing more com­plex and heavy struc­tures, a crate is made.
  • The met­al vault line can be made from pre­fab­ri­cat­ed ele­ments spe­cial­ly designed for this. In this case, you do not have to bend ordi­nary parts. To make an arc your­self, you need to take a cor­ner or a U‑shaped pro­file and cut out the same tri­an­gles from the ver­ti­cal parts in incre­ments of sev­er­al cen­time­ters. The step depends on the bend line. To do this, use scis­sors for met­al. If you bend the result­ing work­piece, the sides of the tri­an­gles will con­nect and you will get an even arc.

from wood

Mea­sure­ment is done in the same way. Bars 3x3 cm are used as a mate­r­i­al. Atten­tion must be paid to their qual­i­ty. There should be no mold spots on the sur­face. Prod­ucts with falling knots and resin smudges are reject­ed. Bars with mechan­i­cal dam­age should not be used for assem­bly. Devi­a­tions in size and shape are high­ly unde­sir­able. The blanks must be dry.

You can use an untreat­ed array, but it is bet­ter to dry it before instal­la­tion and soak it with an anti­sep­tic solu­tion. This is nec­es­sary to pro­tect against mold. The mois­ture con­tained in the air grad­u­al­ly destroys the array. To close the fibrous struc­ture from its pen­e­tra­tion, var­nish­es and oil-based paints are used.

It is impos­si­ble to make an arc that forms an arch from a bar at home. To work, you need a piece of ply­wood. It is cut around the cir­cum­fer­ence after mark­ing with a pen­cil and rope. Rails are attached to it with self-tap­ping screws. There are guides along the edges. Dur­ing instal­la­tion, they should be deep­er than the fin­ished edges of the open­ing by the thick­ness of the plas­ter­board. To pre­vent the sheet from bend­ing, addi­tion­al bars are sewn to the inside of the screws, run­ning ver­ti­cal­ly from the bot­tom to the guides. They are placed in incre­ments of 10–15 cm. A vault is attached to them. Ply­wood ends are not suit­able for this. After installing the side­walls, they are hemmed with GKL trimmed accord­ing to the mark­ings.


How to bend drywall for an arch

The abil­i­ty of the mate­r­i­al to change shape depends on the thick­ness of the prod­uct. The thin­ner it is, the eas­i­er it is to bend. There are prod­ucts with grooves specif­i­cal­ly designed for curved sur­faces. If you can’t find them, you can use one of three ways to form an oval or round out­line.

  • The sheath­ing mate­r­i­al is cut into pieces of 10–15 cm, which are attract­ed by self-tap­ping screws in incre­ments of 5 cm.
  • A strip is cut out of the coat­ing, com­plete­ly cov­er­ing the bot­tom of the struc­ture, and rolled with a per­fo­rat­ing roller. Holes should be locat­ed on the out­side, fac­ing the floor. Then the per­fo­ra­tion is moist­ened with a brush dipped in warm water and aged for 15 min­utes. Dur­ing this time, the sur­face is impreg­nat­ed, the struc­ture becomes more plas­tic. After impreg­na­tion, the work­piece can be mount­ed with a giv­en radius.
  • The dry method is used with a large radius. To avoid the for­ma­tion of creas­es when it is reduced, trans­verse cuts are made with a sharp knife. The depth of the cuts is a few mil­lime­ters. Dur­ing instal­la­tion, the sheet is even­ly pressed with great effort. It is more con­ve­nient to work togeth­er. One per­son press­es the work­piece, the oth­er fas­tens it with screws.

GKL finishing

When choos­ing how to fin­ish a dry­wall arch, it is bet­ter to take plas­tic mate­ri­als. They do not crack and do not crum­ble when it is deformed. It is pos­si­ble in rare cas­es when the tech­nol­o­gy is bro­ken, and the mechan­i­cal loads exceed the per­mis­si­ble norm. Parts also change size and shape when mois­ture gets inside. To reduce stress, put­ty is used, laid on a thin poly­mer mesh. It is laid on a thin lay­er of the mix­ture and sunk with a spat­u­la. From above it is cov­ered with anoth­er lay­er 1 mm thick.

The eas­i­est solu­tion is to glue the wall­pa­per on top. To paint, you will need to put a lay­er of fin­ish­ing put­ty and rub it with fine emery. Then the base is primed and dried for sev­er­al hours. Anoth­er fin­ish­ing option is dec­o­ra­tive plas­ter with poly­mer filler.


You can fin­ish the struc­ture with any mate­ri­als, pro­vid­ed that it is firm­ly estab­lished. Dry­wall will with­stand a thick lay­er of plas­ter, fac­ing stone and tile.

See also a short video on how to make a dry­wall arch on a fin­ished door­way.