The drum does not spin in the washing machine: the causes of the malfunction, the wizard’s advice

Any mod­ern fam­i­ly with­out fail has a wash­ing machine. Mod­ern chil­dren are sim­ply not able to imag­ine that things can be washed in some oth­er way, After all, they have nev­er seen this, and no one needs it any­more. Wash­ing machines free up a large amount of time, we are so used to it that when the machine breaks down, it looks like a dis­as­ter. What to do if the drum in the wash­ing machine does not spin? The ques­tion is rhetor­i­cal — you need to find the rea­son why it does not rotate, and elim­i­nate it.

Faults of the first type

The first step is to dis­con­nect the wash­ing machine from the elec­tri­cal net­work and check with your hands whether the drum is rotat­ing.

1. If the drum spins in both direc­tions, then the rea­son is in the belt of the wash­ing machine. If in such cas­es the drum does not rotate when the engine is run­ning, then the belt is between the drum and the pul­ley. Or the belt has wound around the pul­ley, blocked the drum, and there­fore it does not rotate. To elim­i­nate this cause of the mal­func­tion, you need to remove the back wall of the wash­ing machine and install the belt in place. If it is very weak and shab­by, it is bet­ter to replace it with a new one, only when buy­ing, be sure to pay atten­tion to the mark­ings. It should be the same as on the old belt. The mark­ing indi­cates the num­ber of wedges and the length of the belt.
2. The brush­es of the elec­tric motor are sim­ply worn out, which short­en dur­ing oper­a­tion and lose con­tact with the col­lec­tor. As a result, the elec­tro­mag­net­ic field is not cre­at­ed and it is not enough to rotate the rotor. In this case, you can not hear the oper­a­tion of the engine in the oper­at­ing mode. The elim­i­na­tion of this break­down is to replace the brush­es in the wash­ing machine.
3. A short cir­cuit occurred inside the machine, and the cur­rent stopped flow­ing to the motor. Only a com­pe­tent elec­tri­cian diag­nos­tics can find a spe­cif­ic place.
4. The tacho sen­sor is faulty, which is respon­si­ble for the num­ber of rev­o­lu­tions of the wash­ing machine dur­ing the spin cycle. In this case, the drum stops only dur­ing the spin cycle, and dur­ing wash­ing it spins nor­mal­ly. This break­down requires the inter­ven­tion of spe­cial­ists.
5. The pro­gram­mer is bro­ken. The engine stopped start­ing when the wash­ing machine was turned on. Cor­rec­tion of a break­down is pos­si­ble only by a spe­cial­ist, since a flash­ing or replace­ment of the elec­tron­ic mod­ule is need­ed.
6. A com­mon type of mal­func­tion is that the drum is spin­ning, but weak­ly. Most like­ly, the belt has stopped turn­ing, because. stretched from old age. You can replace it your­self.

Advice:

See also: Why does the belt flies on the wash­ing machine?

Faults of the second type

The drum in the wash­ing machine does not rotate at all, it is jammed, and it does not rotate even by hand when the motor is turned off.

1. Some­thing stuck between the tub and the drum, such as a coin, a but­ton, a car­na­tion, or any oth­er small item that could go through the hole in the drum or the rub­ber cuff of the sun­roof. You can try to pull this object your­self through the hole for the heat­ing ele­ment.
2. Anoth­er rea­son due to which the wash­ing machine draws water but does not turn the drum is a blown heat­ing ele­ment. Some­times it explodes and blocks the entire unit with debris, the drum does not spin in the wash­ing machine due to a mechan­i­cal obsta­cle. You can inde­pen­dent­ly remove these debris and install a new heat­ing ele­ment.
3. Also, the rea­son why the wash­ing machine buzzes but does not spin the drum can be a jammed bear­ing. In this case, on the eve of the com­plete stop of the drum, the grind­ing of met­al is clear­ly audi­ble dur­ing the oper­a­tion of the machine. As soon as you hear these sounds, you need to imme­di­ate­ly change the bear­ing along with the oil seal. If it shat­ters, it can do a lot of trou­ble. You can replace the bear­ings in the wash­ing machine your­self, but it is bet­ter to entrust this to a spe­cial­ist.
4. The capac­i­tor broke, they were installed in old mod­els near the engine. In this case, the engine is ser­vice­able, but does not start. You just need to change the capac­i­tor.
5. The wash­ing machine motor broke down, either due to a leak, or due to a pow­er surge. In this case, the drum is eas­i­ly scrolled by hand, but when the wash­ing machine is turned on, the auto­mat­ic switch­es are trig­gered.

How to disassemble a washing machine

They begin to dis­as­sem­ble the wash­ing machine from the top cov­er and front pan­el, each wash­ing machine has its own approach. On all machines, the mount­ing screws are hid­den quite clev­er­ly, you still need to find them. It is bet­ter not to touch the hatch of the machine, espe­cial­ly since a door slam sen­sor with elec­tri­cal wires is installed under it. To remove the cuff, you need to bend its edge and remove the wire ring from the spring. Then take out the tray. Then you can safe­ly remove the front pan­el.

1. It is nec­es­sary to remove all clamps and rub­ber from the hose suit­able for the tray, through which the pow­der is fed into the tank.
2. If cir­cum­stances force you, you can remove the door, but it is bet­ter not to do this.
3. The front pan­el must be pulled out care­ful­ly so as not to break the thin wiring of the slam sen­sor.
4. At the next step, you need to dis­con­nect the pres­sure switch hose from the tank, it resem­bles a large tablet with a large num­ber of out­go­ing con­tacts, which is locat­ed on top of the body. This is a water lev­el sen­sor.
5. Dis­con­nect the drain drain locat­ed in the low­er right cor­ner. It looks like a black cor­ru­gat­ed hose, some­times white.
6. Now you can remove the engine, hav­ing pre­vi­ous­ly thrown off the belt from it. To do this, you need to insert a fin­ger under the pul­ley and start rotat­ing, the belt will be thrown off with­out prob­lems.
7. Then the elec­tri­cal plug and ground are dis­con­nect­ed from the engine, after which the bolts can be unscrewed. In most cas­es, the engine must be moved back­wards or for­wards. At the same time, you need to make sure that it does not fall off and break.
8. Take a cam­era and take a pic­ture of the suit­able elec­tri­cal wiring of the heat­ing ele­ment, so that lat­er you can cor­rect­ly return every­thing to its place and not con­fuse any­thing. After such a safe­ty net, it can be removed.
9. Now the most dif­fi­cult stage — you need to remove the screws that hold the bal­anc­ing stones. These screws are mas­sive, with large hats.
10. Next, you need to care­ful­ly remove the springs, start­ing from the bot­tom, after which the tank can already be removed.

What’s next? And then you need to dis­as­sem­ble the tank into 2 halves, for which you just have to break the plas­tic fas­ten­ers and get rid of the sil­i­cone gas­ket around the entire perime­ter. When the pul­ley, axle and all com­po­nents of the drum are removed, you can get to the bear­ings. The front bear­ing is usu­al­ly much larg­er than the rear. Accord­ing­ly, when replac­ing this must be tak­en into account. After replac­ing the bear­ings, you need to assem­ble the machine in the reverse order.

See also: