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The con­struc­tion of a wood­en floor on a pile-screw foun­da­tion requires more com­plex work. Ini­tial­ly, it is nec­es­sary to tie the foun­da­tion. It is per­formed using a beam mea­sur­ing 150 by 150 mm or 150 by 200 mm. Strap­ping is need­ed to give strength to the foun­da­tion, even­ly dis­trib­ute the load on it and cre­ate sup­port for the future floor.

The cor­ners of the beams are con­nect­ed using the “half-tree” method (half of the thick­ness of the beam is cut off) or “half-paw” (the beam is cut so that the con­nec­tion ele­ments are at an angle to each oth­er). After that, the strap­ping angle is attached to the foun­da­tion with bolts.

The next step after strap­ping is the instal­la­tion of the log. Logs (beams of appro­pri­ate length) are attached to the har­ness using fas­ten­ing angles and nails at a dis­tance of about 60 cm from each oth­er. Such a dis­tance is nec­es­sary so that a floor insu­la­tion can be placed between the lags.

The final work on the con­struc­tion of the floor is asso­ci­at­ed with water­proof­ing and insu­la­tion. From below, a board is attached to the lags with the help of self-tap­ping screws. A water­proof­ing coat­ing is laid on it, and a lay­er of insu­la­tion 15–20 cm thick is already on it. A vapor bar­ri­er is stretched over the insu­la­tion, which is cov­ered with ply­wood or board.

Step 4. Installing the walls of the frame house

The frame of the house is assem­bled from boards mea­sur­ing 50 by 150 mm or 50 by 200 mm, which are attached to each oth­er and to the beams using met­al cor­ners and nails.

The walls are assem­bled on the fin­ished floor of the frame house. Ini­tial­ly, the low­er strap­ping is done. Details for the walls are pre­pared in advance, and the whole process is some­what rem­i­nis­cent of assem­bling a chil­dren’s design­er. Usu­al­ly col­lect each wall sep­a­rate­ly. It con­sists of ver­ti­cal, top and bot­tom ele­ments, which are called tem­plates. On top of the wall, anoth­er strap­ping is made, which is nec­es­sary for installing the roof rafters.

Bevels and braces. These ele­ments are need­ed to give sta­bil­i­ty to the wall. The slopes are installed from the inside in the case when the wall will be sheathed with slab mate­r­i­al. In the process of such sheath­ing, the slopes are removed. If the wall is sheathed with clap­board, then per­ma­nent braces should be installed. They are attached to each pair of racks, 2 at the top and bot­tom.

Angles. They play an extreme­ly impor­tant role in the frame of the house, since they have a large load. There­fore, it is cus­tom­ary to assem­ble them from sev­er­al boards in order to increase the strength of the struc­ture. Usu­al­ly two racks are installed in the cor­ner, and the result­ing space is filled with a heat insu­la­tor.

Prosten­ki (inter­nal par­ti­tions). They are assem­bled in the same way as exter­nal walls, from sep­a­rate tem­plates, after which they are installed entire­ly in the struc­ture of the house. Since inter­nal par­ti­tions do not car­ry a spe­cial load, they are made of light­weight boards. The insu­la­tion inside the walls per­forms the func­tion not so much of ther­mal insu­la­tion as sound absorp­tion.

Upper har­ness. After installing the walls, a board up to 150 mm thick is nailed on top around the entire perime­ter. This is done for strong adhe­sion of the cor­ners, com­bin­ing all the ele­ments of the frame walls into a sin­gle whole and for dis­trib­ut­ing the load. To fur­ther strength­en the struc­ture of the house, ply­wood or OSB boards are used, which are nailed to the frame over the entire sur­face of the house.

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Tim­ber house: an alter­na­tive to a do-it-your­self frame house

Step 5. Building the roof of a frame house

The roof of a frame house is not much dif­fer­ent from the roofs of stone and con­crete hous­es, and its fas­ten­ing to the walls is eas­i­er to imple­ment.

First of all, you should decide on the type of roof struc­ture. Most often choose a gable or mansard roof. If the house is being built with your own hands, then it is bet­ter to stop at the first option, since it is eas­i­er.

The slope angle of the roof slopes should be in the range of 30–45 degrees, which pro­vides the best way for water and melt­ed snow to drain. The roof frame forms a set of rafters that are sup­port­ed by strap­ping beams. It is nec­es­sary to cal­cu­late in detail the required num­ber of rafters, their cross sec­tion and length, method of attach­ment and instal­la­tion step. On top of the truss struc­ture, a dry board crate is mount­ed — the basis for installing insu­la­tion and roof­ing mate­r­i­al.

Step 6. Warming

In a frame house, every­thing should be insu­lat­ed: walls, floor, ceil­ing. As a heater, min­er­al wool, basalt wool, poly­styrene foam and expand­ed poly­styrene are most often used. When choos­ing a heater, you need to take into account the fea­tures of the tree with which it will be com­bined in the best way.

The process of warm­ing is car­ried out as fol­lows. Out­side, a spe­cial water­proof­ing mem­brane is stretched over the OSB-boards. Inside the house, the insu­la­tion is laid between the racks with an over­lap at the junc­tion of the pre­vi­ous one. The amount of insu­la­tion depends on cli­mat­ic con­di­tions and wall thick­ness.

The floor is insu­lat­ed in a sim­i­lar way. It is bet­ter to start insu­lat­ing the ceil­ing from the attic. The vapor bar­ri­er film is attached from below to the ceil­ing beams and hemmed with ply­wood or board. After the insu­la­tion is laid, a vapor bar­ri­er film is stretched over it, pro­tect­ing it from mois­ture from the inside of the house. Next, sheets of ply­wood or OSB boards are attached, on top of which the final inte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion is car­ried out.

Step 7. Interior and exterior decoration

The final stage in the con­struc­tion of a frame house is the inte­ri­or and exte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion. Inte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion can be done using the fol­low­ing mate­ri­als: lin­ing, OSP-plate (with fur­ther wall plas­ter­ing), dry­wall or gyp­sum fiber (with sub­se­quent wall paint­ing or wall­pa­per­ing).

The sequence of fin­ish­ing works is as fol­lows:

Exter­nal fin­ish­ing can be with or with­out a ven­ti­lat­ed facade. Most often, a ven­ti­lat­ed facade is cho­sen, which allows you to cre­ate addi­tion­al space for warm­ing the house. Mate­ri­als for exte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion are very diverse: imi­ta­tion tim­ber, wood pan­els, plas­tic and met­al sid­ing, facade tiles and ther­mal pan­els.

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Expert advice

1. In the process of lay­ing the foun­da­tion, it is bet­ter to use piles that have an extend­ed “heel”. This design of piles increas­es the bear­ing capac­i­ty of the foun­da­tion sev­er­al times. In addi­tion, this design will effec­tive­ly coun­ter­act the heav­ing of the soil.
2. To fix the strap­ping beam, spe­cial studs should be pre­pared in advance, which will con­nect the base of the house with the foun­da­tion. The more often these studs are installed, the stronger the struc­ture of the frame house will be.
3. For strap­ping, you can use a beam mea­sur­ing 150 mm by 100 mm, but its cost is quite high. It is bet­ter to use sev­er­al boards of small­er thick­ness, con­nect­ed togeth­er, which will sig­nif­i­cant­ly increase the strength of the strap­ping.
4. In the event that the logs are very long, then a trans­verse beam is used, on which jumpers are nailed to increase the strength of the struc­ture.
5. To reduce the cost of build­ing a frame house and at the same time sig­nif­i­cant­ly increase its strength, you can use the tech­nol­o­gy of pre­fab­ri­cat­ed racks, when each rack is assem­bled from two boards fas­tened with nails.

Popular questions and answers

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