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Arbolit

The con­crete blocks from which the bath­house is built are made from saw­dust mixed with cement. Such mate­r­i­al is inex­pen­sive, it is con­ve­nient to assem­ble it and it weighs light­ly. How­ev­er, this mate­r­i­al con­ducts heat poor­ly and is unsta­ble to mois­ture.

Brick

A bath made of stone has a long ser­vice life. Build­ings made of ceram­ic or clink­er bricks do not require addi­tion­al cladding, they are safe and can be used fre­quent­ly with­out much dam­age.

Brick baths must have a sol­id foun­da­tion. The most reli­able is a mono­lith­ic tape. It is not so easy to install, but there will be big prob­lems with it. The stone is expen­sive, does not pass air well and requires insu­la­tion from the inside.

Also, cheap­er alter­na­tives to brick can be used as mate­ri­als: foam blocks, cin­der blocks, gas blocks and expand­ed clay blocks.

4. Choice of location

This item can be attrib­uted to the lay­out, but still it is bet­ter to say about it sep­a­rate­ly. Experts rec­om­mend mak­ing the front door in the bath on the south side, so that in win­ter it would be eas­i­er to enter it. It is bet­ter to put win­dows on the sun­ny side so that the room is well lit with­out elec­tric­i­ty.

- Do not for­get about fire safe­ty rules. It is advis­able to place such a build­ing at a dis­tance of at least 10–15 meters from the house, Petrakovich shares.

More­over, the rules for the loca­tion of the bath are pre­scribed in the leg­is­la­tion:

5. Interior arrangement

The choice of mate­ri­als must be con­sid­ered not only for the exter­nal arrange­ment of the bath, but also for the inter­nal one. In par­tic­u­lar, it is impor­tant to take care of ther­mal insu­la­tion. If the bath is under the same roof as the house, then the out­side is used. When this is a sep­a­rate build­ing, then inter­nal insu­la­tion is suf­fi­cient.

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Ther­mal insu­la­tion in the bath must be hygro­scop­ic, do not con­tain tox­ins, have low ther­mal con­duc­tiv­i­ty, com­ply with fire safe­ty stan­dards and retain its shape. For those who make a bath with their own hands, such qual­i­ty as ease of fas­ten­ing is also impor­tant.

Anoth­er nec­es­sary point is vapor bar­ri­er. The fol­low­ing ele­ments are used for it:

You should also con­sid­er the issue of com­mu­ni­ca­tion. If the bath is attached to the house, then this will be eas­i­er to deal with. In par­tic­u­lar, this applies to water sup­ply.

- In order for the bath to be dry, it is nec­es­sary to prop­er­ly debug the depar­ture and flow of water in it, — our inter­locu­tor notes. — Drainage, sew­er­age, every­thing must be done cor­rect­ly.

To sup­ply water from a well or reser­voir, it will be nec­es­sary to pur­chase a spe­cial pump for this pur­pose. Water enters through a pipe, which must be sealed. It is also nec­es­sary to take care of water­proof­ing.

By the way, if you do not plan to use the bath often, then it is not nec­es­sary to car­ry water there. You can bring the required amount of it with you in bot­tles or oth­er con­tain­ers.

What work will need to be done when building a bath

When there is an under­stand­ing of how to build a bath­house with your own hands, a dia­gram has been drawn up, the nec­es­sary mate­ri­als have been pur­chased, then you need to get down to busi­ness. We tell you where to start.

Site preparation and foundation pouring

Under the bath you need a flat area — no grass, oth­er veg­e­ta­tion and debris. The top lay­er of soil is removed at the lev­el of 15–20 cm. You mark the perime­ter with pegs, on which you pull the rope.

Next, you have to dig a trench, holes for poles (if the bath is framed) or a foun­da­tion pit. It all depends on what type of struc­ture you will have and with what rea­son. For baths made of bricks or logs, it is bet­ter to make a mono­lith­ic con­crete tape with a small lev­el of pen­e­tra­tion. In such cas­es, use rein­force­ment before pour­ing the foun­da­tion.

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Step-by-step instruc­tions for build­ing a bath from a bar

Housing construction

As men­tioned above, a lot here depends on the mate­ri­als from which your bath will be. If you are mak­ing it from stone blocks or bricks, then you should first lev­el the base with cement and, after dry­ing, cov­er it with a roof­ing mate­r­i­al fold­ed in half, which will take over the func­tions of water­proof­ing.

Lay­ing walls should start from the cor­ners. It is impor­tant to observe the plane to ensure that the struc­tures are locat­ed on the same lev­el. The brick is laid on a mix­ture of cement and sand. Block struc­tures — on glue. At the places where the win­dows and the door will be locat­ed, jumpers are mount­ed. It is also nec­es­sary to cre­ate an armored belt that will tie all the walls of the build­ing into a sin­gle frame. Roof bolts are fixed on it. The roof is erect­ed when the solu­tions used in the fas­ten­ing of the ele­ments gain strength.

Logs are stacked accord­ing to the tenon-groove prin­ci­ple. Con­sid­er­ing their weight, you will need an assis­tant. It is bet­ter to take not bare untreat­ed logs, but round­ed ones, the same in cross sec­tion.

A light foun­da­tion is enough for a beam. The assem­bly from it is called frame, it is con­sid­ered one of the fastest. The walls are made accord­ing to the type of lat­tice. First, the low­er strap­ping of the beam is assem­bled, the ele­ments are fas­tened with screws or mount­ed end-to-end on met­al cor­ners, then the strap­ping board is mount­ed at the end, which is adja­cent to the floor logs, they are cut from the back side so that anoth­er end board for strap­ping is installed. The logs should be placed so that a heat insu­la­tor is placed between them, min­er­al wool is ide­al. For the low­er strap­ping of the tim­ber, dimen­sions of 100x100 mm are suit­able. Under the frame of the walls — 50x100 mm. For vapor bar­ri­er it is bet­ter to use a film. The out­er and inner lin­ing is usu­al­ly made from edged boards, lin­ing, OSB or sid­ing. Sheath­ing and ther­mal insu­la­tion in the frame bath is done after the instal­la­tion of the roof.

Easy to install and a bath of pal­lets and boards. They are fas­tened togeth­er with self-tap­ping screws or wood­en dow­els. The posi­tion can be either ver­ti­cal or hor­i­zon­tal.

Floor installation

Here the lay­ing goes accord­ing to the “puff” type. First come the logs, which can be met­al, wood, poly­mer or rein­forced con­crete. Then the sub­floor, vapor bar­ri­er tape, insu­la­tion, water­proof­ing and top deck­ing.

In a bath from a bar, the floor is eas­i­er to make. First comes the insu­la­tion lay­er, and then the fin­ish­ing board.

Vera Petrakovich is sure that the floor should be made of tiles. Under it, you can install a con­crete base. If we are not talk­ing about a steam room, then the floor can be left made of wood, but in a room where it is very hot, this is not rec­om­mend­ed.

Roof installation

The roof can be dou­ble-pitched or sin­gle-pitched. The first option is suit­able if your bath is locat­ed in a place where there is no strong wind. The sec­ond is for a bath attached to the house.

The con­struc­tion of the roof begins with the instal­la­tion of a mauer­lat, on which the roof truss sys­tem is fixed. Next, you need to lay a lay­er of water­proof­ing and fix the laths of the crate. The last step is lay­ing the roof. Suit­able slate, roof­ing mate­r­i­al, shin­gles and oth­er mate­ri­als at your dis­cre­tion. Often, for exam­ple, a pro­filed sheet is used. It is also rec­om­mend­ed to install a heat-insu­lat­ing lay­er on the ceil­ing for the reli­a­bil­i­ty of the bath.

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Furnace installation

As the expert points out, the stove must be select­ed accord­ing to the vol­ume of the steam room. A full-fledged brick oven will be an inte­gral part of the struc­ture and a sep­a­rate foun­da­tion will need to be laid under it. Such a stove retains heat for a long time and warms up the steam room bet­ter. When build­ing a brick oven, refrac­to­ry clay is used.

If you have a small steam room, then you can pur­chase a met­al stove. They come with heat exchang­ers, they heat both the bath and the water. Such struc­tures can be lined with nat­ur­al stone — it gives a soft, radi­ant warmth. But this device is unsafe and, as a rule, sheets of met­al are laid next to the stove.

Iron stoves are closed, where the fire­box is at the bot­tom, the heater is in the mid­dle, and the water tank is on top, and open — with stones laid out­side.

The pipe at the fur­nace must be with a direct out­let so that it does not become clogged.

Interior decoration

The insu­la­tion is placed between the bars, which are attached to the inside of the walls at a dis­tance of 40–50 cm from each oth­er. Experts rec­om­mend the use of min­er­al wool. It is closed with a vapor bar­ri­er film, which, in turn, is closed with a fin­ish­ing mate­r­i­al. For the last lay­er, take boards up to 2–4 cm from aspen, lin­den or alder. In no case should conifers be used in a steam room, as they release resin when heat­ed. Lum­ber from OSB and fiber­board is also pro­hib­it­ed.

Installation of partitions and shelves

Par­ti­tions in the bath are also made of spe­cial wood­en bars. Their task is to sep­a­rate sep­a­rate rooms. Already in the floor joists, a place should be pro­vid­ed for its instal­la­tion and fix­ing.

Shelves in the steam room should be as com­fort­able as pos­si­ble. It is desir­able to do it in 2 or even 3 tiers — in the form of large steps. The dis­tance to the ceil­ing is at least 100–120 cm. From the floor to the first shelf, the dis­tance should be at least 30–45 cm. The gap between the tiers is 50 cm. The shelves should be wide for sit­ting and lying, 80–90 cm should be enough. Length, prefer­ably at least 180 cm, so that you can stretch your legs.

The frame of the shelf is assem­bled from tim­ber. An edged pol­ished board is mount­ed to it.

Ventilation installation

Ven­ti­la­tion in the bath is of two types — nat­ur­al and forced. Win­dows pro­vide the first — cold air enters through one, hot air leaves through the sec­ond. The sec­ond implies a built-in device pow­ered by elec­tric­i­ty.

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