How to build a gazebo with your own hands

“Kom­so­mol­skaya Prav­da” has pre­pared step-by-step detailed instruc­tions and a guide on how to build a gaze­bo with your own hands with advice from experts
How to build a gazebo with your own hands
How to build a gaze­bo with your own hands. Pho­to: pixabay.com

The dec­o­ra­tion and organ­ic part of any sub­ur­ban area is a gaze­bo. Here you can take a break from work in the mid­day heat, drink tea at sun­set or sit with a book. You can equip the din­ing and bar­be­cue areas or a place for chil­dren’s games. We tell you how to build a gaze­bo with your own hands — advice from crafts­men and peo­ple who have already erect­ed their struc­tures and are ready to share their expe­ri­ence.

Step-by-step instructions for building a gazebo

Decide on a place

Think about where you want to see the future gaze­bo. Are there paths laid there, is there enough room for maneu­vers dur­ing con­struc­tion and is it con­ve­nient to car­ry build­ing mate­ri­als there? Maybe it’s time to donate a cou­ple of beds that you are too lazy to cul­ti­vate and arrange a dream gaze­bo in their place.

Organize an inventory of tools and materials

Often, in sum­mer cot­tages or in the garage, mate­ri­als accu­mu­late that are left over from an old repair or migrat­ed by inher­i­tance from past own­ers. Inspect the bins — sud­den­ly you have valu­able things that will come in handy. Plus, you need a min­i­mal set of tools. If some­thing is miss­ing, do not for­get to take from a friend or add to the shop­ping list:



  • a ham­mer;
  • saw;
  • nails;
  • lev­el;
  • screw­driv­er;
  • cir­cu­lar saw.

Go to the construction market or shop

On your hands or in your head, you should have a list of what you need to pur­chase. All this today can be found in any con­struc­tion hyper­mar­ket. From the pros: you can pay by card, you will have a receipt and a guar­an­tee, as well as the abil­i­ty to order reli­able deliv­ery of all pur­chas­es. The sec­ond option is to go to the con­struc­tion mar­ket. We’ll have to walk around the depart­ments and choose. But the range is larg­er, the prices may be more prof­itable. But pre­pare cash. And in the event of mar­riage, sell­ers may not be ready to return mon­ey and accept claims, rather than in a large store. There­fore, col­lect all receipts and checks.

Decide on the foundation of the gazebo

First of all, piles are need­ed. This is the fastest and most reli­able foun­da­tion for a gaze­bo. They can be pur­chased at hard­ware stores. Screw piles are used for the gaze­bo — a point­ed auger comes out of a large diam­e­ter pipe.

Here are their ben­e­fits:

  • durable and per­fect­ly with­stand loads — just under the area of ​​a stan­dard gaze­bo;
  • sim­ple instal­la­tion;
  • rel­a­tive­ly low price: from 1000 to 3000 rubles per unit;
  • even if your site has uneven ter­rain or equip­ment access to the con­struc­tion site is lim­it­ed, the pile-screw foun­da­tion will be the best alter­na­tive to oth­er types;
  • you can start build­ing a gaze­bo at any time of the year;
  • durable: if all the work is car­ried out with high qual­i­ty, it will last for more than a dozen years;
  • usu­al­ly the piles are already paint­ed and just need to be screwed into the ground.

How many piles will be required and how long? Pro­ceed from the for­mu­la that four screw piles are need­ed for a 3 × 3 meter gaze­bo. For a square gaze­bo from four to six meters, nine pieces are already rec­om­mend­ed. For sandy soil or loam, a length of 2500 mm is enough. For peat soils, you need longer. Do not for­get to pur­chase caps (plugs) for each pile.

A bag of cement will also come in handy. Sand-con­crete mix is ​​ide­al for strength­en­ing piles, if you want to do it. One bag of brand M‑200 should be enough. Remem­ber if you have mix­ing con­tain­ers and if not, then take them too.

Decide on the type of roof

- It is nec­es­sary to decide what prop­er­ties the roof­ing will have. First of all, it’s about aes­thet­ics. The roof can be made of any mate­r­i­al: ceram­ic tiles, met­al, cop­per, shin­gles, roll mate­ri­als. It is more prac­ti­cal from the point of view of price-qual­i­ty ratio to work with bitu­mi­nous coat­ings, since, with a beau­ti­ful appear­ance, they are prac­ti­cal­ly waste-free dur­ing instal­la­tion. It is con­ve­nient to mount such mate­ri­als on a wood­en base, which is the eas­i­est to process. This is true if the gaze­bo has a com­plex shape, says Alex­ey Voroby­ov, tech­ni­cal spe­cial­ist of Tech­noN­IKOL.

In large hyper­mar­kets, you can find self-adhe­sive bitu­mi­nous roll mate­r­i­al with col­ored basalt dress­ing. These can be small plain rolls with a ser­vice life of more than 15 years, or rolls 1 m wide and with col­ored basalt dress­ing imi­tat­ing clas­si­cal tiles and a ser­vice life of more than 20 years. The only restric­tion on the use of this mate­r­i­al is the lay­ing tem­per­a­ture, which must be at least +10°C.

The hard­ware store will help you cal­cu­late the amount of mate­ri­als, based on the planned area.



Other materials

Buy a wood preser­v­a­tive. They should cov­er the foun­da­tion frame. It will pro­tect the tim­ber from mois­ture, insects and even igni­tion. Some anti­sep­tics come imme­di­ate­ly with the addi­tion of col­or. Then you can not take the paint. A can of yacht var­nish will come in handy. Cov­er the floor with them for bet­ter preser­va­tion.

Also, if you do every­thing accord­ing to our instruc­tions, you will also need:

  • anchor bolts;
  • fit­tings;
  • tim­ber, logs and floor boards, ply­wood (see below for details).

Arrange delivery and get started

When all the mate­ri­als have been pur­chased, the logis­tics to the site have been cal­cu­lat­ed, you can choose the X day and, after a hearty break­fast, begin the long-await­ed work on build­ing a gaze­bo with your own hands.

What work will need to be done when building a gazebo

Foundation layout

So, you have decid­ed on a place to build a gaze­bo and firm­ly decid­ed to do every­thing with your own hands. Start by mark­ing the con­tours of the foun­da­tion and dri­ve in pegs at the places where the piles are to be installed — in the cor­ners. It is not rec­om­mend­ed to dri­ve them clos­er than two meters to each oth­er, but it is bet­ter not to go beyond the mark of three meters. The foun­da­tion is arranged in such a way that the load from sub­se­quent installed struc­tures can be even­ly dis­trib­uted over its area.

It is inter­est­ing

How to build a house with your own hands

Piling installation

Every­thing is ready to start work. Install the piles strict­ly ver­ti­cal­ly. Take a lev­el to con­trol. Start rolling into the ground. Ask an assis­tant to super­vise from the side. It is bet­ter to turn it alone, since with four hands there is a greater risk that it will go uneven­ly. Already at the end, the pile will stand almost lev­el, so a sec­ond per­son can help by force.

Note that in the ground there may well be nat­ur­al obsta­cles — boul­ders, snags and oth­er debris. If the pile does not go at all, then you will have to get it and car­ry it. But since the den­si­ty of the soil will already be bro­ken, it is rec­om­mend­ed to indent at least three to four blade diam­e­ters.

Adjust the twist­ing height based on the cho­sen height of the plinth of the future gaze­bo. Bet­ter to be around half a meter. Keep in mind that you have almost no mar­gin for error. Unscrew­ing the pile back is fraught with a vio­la­tion of the strength of the soil.


As a result, all piles must be brought to a sin­gle lev­el. To do this, you need a tool of the same name. The most con­ve­nient and accu­rate option is a laser lev­el. You can fix the marks with mask­ing tape. Cut off the excess height with a grinder.


Do not spare your efforts, time and mon­ey and be sure to add strength to the foun­da­tion of the gaze­bo. Espe­cial­ly on shaky ground. To do this, the pre­pared solu­tion must be poured into the trunk. Don’t for­get to put a fun­nel in so you don’t spill it. If you work in the cold sea­son, be sure to add anti-frost addi­tives. They will not allow the mix­ture to expand exces­sive­ly when frozen. And one more point “under the aster­isk” — for those who want max­i­mum strength. Before pour­ing, you can install rein­force­ment inside along the length of the pile. But for this you will need the poles them­selves and a tool for saw­ing them.



Head mounting

This is the name of the plug, which is installed on top of the pile. You need to put it after the mix­ture has solid­i­fied. When this hap­pens, you should look at the pack­age from the mix­ture.

Tiling and laying the floor

This is the con­nec­tion of piles into a sin­gle base frame. You can make it with a wood­en beam. It is nec­es­sary to fix it with anchor bolts through the holes in the base.

- It is bet­ter to take a beam with a sec­tion of 15 cm, then you can be calm and not count the num­ber of peo­ple in the gaze­bo. Put logs on top — boards on which the floor will lie. They need to be attached by plac­ing the end part on the base so that they do not bend. And on top you can put the floor itself. It is bet­ter to make it from larch. So it will be more durable. For every­thing else, you can use pine. But it’s bet­ter to treat both with an anti­sep­tic for wood, ”said fur­ni­ture design­er in loft, urban, rus­tic style, founder of a car­pen­try work­shopVik­tor Sharov.

Anoth­er option is to use a met­al frame. Suit­able for those who know how to work with weld­ing.

- You can sim­ply weld the met­al frame of the future gaze­bo to these piles. All weld­ing joints are then addi­tion­al­ly cleaned and treat­ed with pro­tec­tive agents against the occur­rence of rust. This can be done with spe­cial paints or enam­els, — shares Alex­ey Voroby­ov.

The floor cov­er­ing can be made of deck board, which has demon­strat­ed itself well dur­ing oper­a­tion in open space and does not rot.


The instal­la­tion of the roof begins with the device of the crate and the lay­ing of a sol­id base. The crate is usu­al­ly made of an inch board, 10–15 cm wide. The step of lay­ing the board depends on the struc­ture of the build­ing frame and is usu­al­ly 20–30 cm. Before lay­ing, the crate is treat­ed with spe­cial anti­sep­tics to pre­vent it from rot­ting dur­ing oper­a­tion. After mount­ing the crate, a sol­id base is laid on it from a mois­ture-resis­tant OSB board or ply­wood of the same com­po­si­tion.

When the sol­id base is mount­ed, then met­al strips are installed around the perime­ter of the struc­ture in order to prop­er­ly orga­nize the drainage of water from the roof­ing. On the low­er over­hangs of the roof — cor­nice strips, and on the side — end. They are attached to the base with ruffed roof­ing nails with a wide hat and with a fas­ten­ing step of 15 cm. The fas­ten­ing is per­formed in a checker­board pat­tern. This is nec­es­sary to cre­ate rigid­i­ty.

When the instal­la­tion of the strips is com­plet­ed, the lay­ing of the mate­r­i­al itself begins. More and more self-adhe­sive prod­ucts are appear­ing in stores, which are more prac­ti­cal with­in the frame­work of “samostroy” and do not require hir­ing spe­cial­ized teams to per­form work. With such mate­ri­als you can han­dle your­self and at the same time save a lot.

  • We start lay­ing from the cor­nice over­hang, rolling the rolls par­al­lel to the cor­nice.
  • On the under­side, the mate­r­i­al has a film that can be eas­i­ly removed, expos­ing the self-adhe­sive bitu­mi­nous lay­er, which is just glued to the wood.
  • It is impor­tant to lay the mate­r­i­al even­ly and with­out folds, as the lat­ter will be dif­fi­cult to cor­rect lat­er. The fact is that the mate­r­i­al is ini­tial­ly almost tight­ly glued to the base.
  • Adjunc­tions to planks and pro­tru­sions are smeared with roof­ing mas­tic.
  • When the roll is laid in its upper part, 10 cm from the edge, mechan­i­cal fas­ten­ing is car­ried out with the help of ruffed roof­ing nails and with a fas­ten­ing step of 15 cm, made in a checker­board pat­tern.
  • Next, the next row is laid with an over­lap, over­lap­ping the nails by 10 cm. Addi­tion­al­ly, this area is also smeared with mas­tic. If trans­verse over­laps appear on the roof, then they are 15–20 cm and are also smeared with mas­tic. And the dis­tance between adja­cent trans­verse over­laps should be at least 50 cm.
  • Edges and junc­tions are per­formed in a sim­i­lar way. The over­lap zone is 20 cm on each side and is smeared with bitu­mi­nous mas­tic. Pre­vi­ous­ly, these ele­ments are fas­tened in the over­lap zone with nails to the base.



Do not spare your efforts, time and mon­ey and be sure to add strength to the foun­da­tion of the gaze­bo. Pho­to: shutterstock.com

Walls and cladding

When the roof is fin­ished, the gaze­bo is com­plet­ed by cre­at­ing side par­ti­tions, the edges of which can also be made of met­al or edged boards. Inex­pen­sive plas­tic sid­ing can be used as a cladding. How­ev­er, there is not much aes­thet­ics in it.

You can make a sol­id wood­en base and lay stone or bitu­mi­nous tiles. At the same time, for stone tiles, it is nec­es­sary to cre­ate a fixed, low-shrink­age base of DSP boards so that the tiles keep even and do not peel off. For bitu­men, OSB is suit­able, to which it is attached with nails.

Expert advice

“I don’t like going to the gaze­bo some­where far away. Sud­den­ly it rains, but you want to take hot tea with you? There­fore, I decid­ed to make a gaze­bo in the gar­den, but with access to the kitchen — right into the house. Instead of a win­dow, he cut an open­ing for a door. This is safer for the struc­ture of the house than mak­ing a new hole in the wall. But the gaze­bo itself, so that there was no thresh­old, had to be raised one and a half meters from the ground. This is good for a gaze­bo, less damp­ness and under it it was pos­si­ble to orga­nize a small ware­house of gar­den uten­sils. And the whole plus of the gaze­bo next to the house is that you can use the roof of the house as the roof of the gaze­bo. This will save time and mate­ri­als. Such a gaze­bo can be assem­bled togeth­er in one day, — says Vik­tor Sharov.

- If we are talk­ing about a place of rest, say, for read­ing books or day­time sleep, then mate­ri­als made of met­al and wood are suit­able for the frame. If the gaze­bo will be used as, for exam­ple, a sum­mer kitchen, then it is nec­es­sary to con­sid­er mate­ri­als made of brick and stone. They are non-com­bustible, the frame of them is more durable. In addi­tion, a stove made of stone fits nice­ly into struc­tures made of sim­i­lar mate­ri­als, rather than into a met­al frame, notes Alex­ey Voroby­ov.

Here are some more tips that will come in handy for those who decide to build a gaze­bo.

  • Order a project from design­ers. Most often, this is done by spe­cial­ists in land­scape design of gar­den plots. You can dic­tate your wish­es to him and he will draw options in dif­fer­ent styles, as well as advise where you can buy such mate­ri­als. An aver­age design­er will take 30–50 thou­sand rubles for work. But spend­ing will also be ahead, because you can not find suit­able mate­ri­als every­where.
  • The spe­cial chic of the gaze­bo is glaz­ing. It can be sim­ple win­dows or panoram­ic glass. It will cost a pret­ty pen­ny and will have to be washed more often. You can improve the project by arrang­ing a warm floor. It can be made elec­tric or pow­ered by a heat­ing boil­er.
  • An oval or cir­cle saves space. There­fore, if your gaze­bo is larg­er than 3 × 3 meters, then it makes sense to think about round­ing the cor­ners. This is also visu­al­ly more advan­ta­geous.
  • When choos­ing a mate­r­i­al for a roof, ask if the mate­ri­als are refrac­to­ry? This is not only the safe­ty of the build­ing, espe­cial­ly if there is a bar­be­cue, but also pro­tec­tion from heat­ing in the sun.
  • You can dec­o­rate the gaze­bo with climb­ing plants.
  • To com­plete the com­po­si­tion and start using the gaze­bo, you will need to order fur­ni­ture. Inte­ri­or details com­plete her image. Con­sid­er an area with a seat­ing area and the pos­si­bil­i­ty of arrang­ing a bed­side table to store handy gar­den tools or uten­sils.

Popular questions and answers

What can you save when building a gazebo?

If you decide to build a gaze­bo with your own hands, then you are already sav­ing on order­ing con­struc­tion teams. How­ev­er, there are oth­er ways to save mon­ey.

Order a typ­i­cal gaze­bo. It’s like a con­struc­tor, which was kind­ly carved in the work­shop. You just have to assem­ble it with your own hands.

Cut down on mate­ri­als. To do this, you will have to reduce the area.

Choose cheap­er mate­ri­als. For exam­ple, instead of WPC (this is such an expen­sive and beau­ti­ful com­pos­ite that is laid on the floor), replace it with larch or pine, as in our guide. The roof can be made gable, not four-slope.

Avoid glaz­ing. This is one of the most expen­sive parts of the project.

Make fur­ni­ture for the gaze­bo with your own hands or bring old bench­es and a table.

For those keen on crop pro­duc­tion, you can save mon­ey and make a liv­ing gaze­bo. You only need to assem­ble the foun­da­tion and frame. From above, you can start up climb­ing plants, for exam­ple, a vine. Ide­al for those who use the gaze­bo only in the warm sea­son. But you have to care for and cul­ti­vate bindweed.

Is it safe to build a gazebo immediately with a barbecue?

It is safe if you fol­low some rules from the very begin­ning of con­struc­tion. So for a brick bar­be­cue you need a tiled or strip foun­da­tion. It must be erect­ed along with the base of the gaze­bo itself. Please note that these struc­tures can­not be equat­ed. The base for the bra­zier should rise by 10 cm. After that, build the bra­zier itself, and only then start build­ing walls and roofs. Accord­ing­ly, you need to cal­cu­late the place for the duct. If you are mak­ing a gaze­bo with a bar­be­cue, do not for­get to cov­er the wood with a pro­tec­tive var­nish and anti­sep­tic. This will pro­tect it from fire.

Are there any standards for installing a gazebo on the site?

The Build­ing Reg­u­la­tions and Rules (SNiP) indi­cate that the dis­tance of a res­i­den­tial build­ing from the bor­der of a neigh­bor­ing plot must be at least three meters. There­fore, if you have erect­ed a cap­i­tal large gaze­bo, which in the­o­ry can be des­ig­nat­ed as a guest house, then this dis­tance should be main­tained. If the gaze­bo is com­pact, then accord­ing to the stan­dards, a dis­tance of one meter is suf­fi­cient. The­o­ret­i­cal­ly, if you have a good rela­tion­ship with your neigh­bors, you can build close to the fence, hav­ing pre­vi­ous­ly dis­cussed this point. It will not be super­flu­ous to take a receipt that the neigh­bor does not mind. Oth­er­wise, he can go to court, which will issue a demo­li­tion order. Anoth­er nuance is the slope of the roof. It should not be in the direc­tion of the neigh­bor­ing plot.