How to build a house from a bar with your own hands

A log house has a num­ber of advan­tages. It is quite pos­si­ble to build it with your own hands, but this requires pre­lim­i­nary prepa­ra­tion. Our step-by-step instruc­tions and expert advice will help with this.
How to build a house from a bar with your own hands
How to build a house from a bar with your own hands. Pho­to: pixabay.com

A log house has many advan­tages:

  • envi­ron­men­tal friend­li­ness of nat­ur­al mate­r­i­al;
  • opti­mal humid­i­ty and micro­cli­mate inside the house;
  • air micro­cir­cu­la­tion in the walls;
  • in sum­mer the house does not heat up much, and in win­ter it keeps heat well;
  • rel­a­tive­ly low cost of con­struc­tion;
  • quick con­struc­tion time com­pared to hous­es made of oth­er mate­ri­als;
  • inex­pen­sive and high-qual­i­ty ther­mal insu­la­tion;
  • option­al inte­ri­or and exte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion, as the tim­ber itself looks good.

Step-by-step instructions for building a house from a bar

Step 1. Planning and material selection

You can cre­ate a house plan your­self or find a typ­i­cal project on the Inter­net, where var­i­ous options are offered. If an indi­vid­ual approach is desired, please con­tact the design office.



An impor­tant stage of con­struc­tion is the choice of mate­r­i­al, since the qual­i­ty and strength of the build­ing depend on it. The opti­mal cross-sec­tion of the beam: 100 by 150 and 150 by 150 mm. It is bet­ter to choose conif­er­ous trees. The beam can be ordi­nary, pro­filed and glued.

An ordi­nary tim­ber con­tains nat­ur­al mois­ture, so it will be sub­ject to dry­ing, crack­ing and defor­ma­tion.

The pro­filed beam is made of sol­id wood and has grooves for con­nec­tion with oth­er beams.

Glued lam­i­nat­ed tim­ber is a glued piece of conif­er­ous wood. This bar also has mount­ing grooves.

It is best to choose pro­filed and glued beams that have been dried. They will be some­what more expen­sive, but they guar­an­tee high-qual­i­ty and fast con­struc­tion.

Step 2. Installing the foundation

Usu­al­ly a log house is not too heavy a struc­ture, so a light­weight foun­da­tion can be used. There are the fol­low­ing options for such a foun­da­tion:

  • mono­lith­ic tape (it is used when it is planned to build a base­ment or cel­lar in the house);
  • colum­nar foun­da­tion (pil­lars are made of con­crete blocks and are installed along the perime­ter and the loca­tion of the bear­ing walls at a dis­tance of 1.5 meters);
  • pile-screw (this pre­fab­ri­cat­ed met­al struc­ture is used on loose and wet soils);
  • slab mono­lith­ic foun­da­tion (when using it, the cost of arrang­ing the floor is not required).

The most com­mon­ly used strip foun­da­tion, which involves the fol­low­ing work:

  • the site is cleared and marked;
  • under all load-bear­ing walls, a trench is dug some­what wider than the thick­ness of the walls;
  • sand and grav­el 10–15 cm high are poured into the bot­tom of the trench, soaked with water and com­pact­ed;
  • instal­la­tion of wood­en form­work is being done;
  • rein­force­ment is installed and con­crete is poured.
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Step 3. Building the walls and floor

Before erect­ing walls, the foun­da­tion should be water­proofed. To do this, a roof­ing mate­r­i­al is laid on a lay­er of bitu­men.



Under the first crown it is nec­es­sary to place a lay­ing board. The ini­tial lay­er of beams and the lay­ing board must be pre-treat­ed with an anti­sep­tic. The base crown is made in half a tree.

Before lay­ing the next lay­er of beams, it is required to lay a heater, which is fixed with a sta­pler. The beams are fas­tened togeth­er with wood­en dow­els. The top beam is drilled through, and the bot­tom half. Nagel is dri­ven into the result­ing hole. The rec­om­mend­ed dis­tance between them is about 1.5 meters.

Spe­cial bars (logs) intend­ed for lay­ing floor boards are installed after lay­ing the first and sec­ond crowns. Logs are laid either on the base­ment of the house, or cut into the first crown at a dis­tance of 0.4–0.7 meters. Then the roll boards and the water­proof­ing lay­er are laid. The next lay­er between the lags is a heat-insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al, after it is a vapor bar­ri­er lay­er. And final­ly, the instal­la­tion of the floor.

Inter­nal walls are installed after the con­struc­tion of the main box. This is nec­es­sary, as they crash into the main walls.

Step 4. Installing door and window openings

Door and win­dow open­ings can be mount­ed in two ways. The first is that the bars are ini­tial­ly laid so that a win­dow or door can fit into the result­ing open­ing. In this case, on both sides of the open­ing, the bars are fas­tened with dow­els. This is quite labo­ri­ous, more­over, in the process of dry­ing the wood, the open­ing will increase, which must be tak­en into account ini­tial­ly.

Win­dows and doors should be installed last, when the wood is com­plete­ly dry and warp­ing is not pos­si­ble. Pho­to: shutterstock.com

The sec­ond method is less labor inten­sive. The space for a win­dow or door is sawn out after the wall has been erect­ed and the tim­ber has dried. But in this case, loss­es in the build­ing mate­r­i­al are inevitable. Win­dows and doors should be installed last, when the wood is com­plete­ly dry and warp­ing is not pos­si­ble. The tim­ber frame is installed in ready-made open­ings. The design of win­dows and doors is fur­ther attached to it.

Step 5. Building the roof

In hous­es made of tim­ber, the roof is most often made gable or bro­ken. This allows you to equip a com­fort­able attic, which makes the home built with your own hands even more attrac­tive.

Roof con­struc­tion starts on the ground. It is here that pairs of rafter legs are assem­bled and con­nect­ed by puffs. After that, the result­ing rigid struc­ture is installed on the roof. Two ped­i­ments are cre­at­ed by installing two extreme pairs of rafter legs. The ped­i­ments are con­nect­ed by a ridge beam.

Then the instal­la­tion of the fol­low­ing rafter pairs is car­ried out at a dis­tance of about 0.9 meters from each oth­er. The rafters are cov­ered with a vapor bar­ri­er, which is fixed with a sta­pler and fixed on top with spe­cial rails that are nailed to the rafters.

After that, the crate is stuffed in incre­ments of about 0.4 meters. Then a coat­ing of soft roll mate­r­i­al is made. The final step is the lay­ing of the roof. You can use dif­fer­ent mate­r­i­al as its qual­i­ty improves and, accord­ing­ly, ris­es in price: roof­ing mate­r­i­al (from 15 rubles per sq. Meter), slate (from 100 rubles per sq. Meter), ondulin (from 260 rubles per sq. Meter), met­al tile (from 300 rubles per sq. meter), flex­i­ble tiles (from 300 rubles per sq. meter), cor­ru­gat­ed board (from 300 rubles per sq. meter), wood­en tiles (from 800 rubles per sq. meter).



From the inside, the roof requires good insu­la­tion. For this pur­pose, ther­mal insu­la­tion mate­r­i­al is laid between the lags. A vapor bar­ri­er film is attached to the bot­tom. After that, the ceil­ing can be hemmed with clap­board.

Step 6. Internal and external work

If glued lam­i­nat­ed tim­ber was used dur­ing the con­struc­tion of the house, then inte­ri­or and exte­ri­or fin­ish­ing can be car­ried out imme­di­ate­ly. In the case when oth­er mate­ri­als were used, you should wait up to six months for the house to shrink.

The cracks and cracks formed as a result of shrink­age must be caulked and sealed with mas­tic.

If the house is made of glued and pro­filed tim­ber, then you can do with­out inte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion, since the source mate­r­i­al already looks beau­ti­ful. If an ordi­nary tim­ber was used, then it should be sand­ed, and then var­nished or paint­ed.

Exte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion also main­ly con­cerns a house built from ordi­nary tim­ber. In this case, you can use vinyl sid­ing, lin­ing and oth­er build­ing mate­ri­als.

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Expert advice

  • The walls, foun­da­tion and all life sup­port sys­tems of a house made of tim­ber must meet the require­ments of safe­ty and com­fort.
  • Dur­ing con­struc­tion, it is nec­es­sary to strict­ly adhere to the assem­bly tech­nol­o­gy.
  • The house should be built only from high-qual­i­ty and dry tim­ber.
  • Dur­ing con­struc­tion, you can use heat-treat­ed wood, which has under­gone spe­cial fir­ing, has an aes­thet­ic appear­ance and does not con­tain mois­ture.
  • It is impor­tant to mon­i­tor the con­di­tion of the foun­da­tion so that it is not flood­ed with ground and sur­face water.
  • Every five years it is nec­es­sary to renew the pro­tec­tive coat­ing of wood.

Popular questions and answers

Pavel Bunin, own­er of the bath com­plex“Ban­sk”:

How to reduce the cost of building a house from a bar?

The right tech­nol­o­gy allows you to fur­ther reduce the cost of build­ing a house from a bar, while sav­ing should not be at the expense of qual­i­ty.

The foun­da­tion is such an ele­ment of build­ing a house, on which the amount of mon­ey spent large­ly depends. I rec­om­mend mak­ing a colum­nar foun­da­tion when build­ing a house from pro­filed tim­ber. This will sig­nif­i­cant­ly save mon­ey, since it will take two times less mate­ri­als than on a strip foun­da­tion.

You can also save a lot on the con­struc­tion of walls if you choose the right mate­r­i­al. The price of a cut tim­ber is approx­i­mate­ly equal to the cost of a log, but addi­tion­al work will be required here. Pro­filed tim­ber, although more expen­sive, will speed up con­struc­tion. Sig­nif­i­cant­ly save time using pro­filed glued beams, which are even more expen­sive, but speed up the work due to the con­ve­nient con­nec­tion of the beams. Increased tight­ness is cre­at­ed, which reduces the cost of ther­mal insu­la­tion of walls.

Roof con­struc­tion also requires sig­nif­i­cant costs, some of which can be avoid­ed. For this, it is not nec­es­sary to build com­plex archi­tec­tur­al struc­tures. A good solu­tion in terms of sav­ings is the use of soft tiles, which have such qual­i­ties as light­ness, reli­a­bil­i­ty and low price.

What is better to entrust to specialists?

Some work relat­ed to the con­struc­tion of a house is bet­ter to entrust to spe­cial­ists, since here the sav­ings can turn into loss­es. First of all, it con­cerns the design of the house. Stan­dard projects avail­able on the net­work do not dif­fer in orig­i­nal design and do not take into account the specifics of the site. Pro­fes­sion­al design agen­cies will help to make an indi­vid­ual project of the house, tak­ing into account all the wish­es of the cus­tomer. They will also give the nec­es­sary rec­om­men­da­tions for con­struc­tion, tak­ing into account the char­ac­ter­is­tics of the site, soil topog­ra­phy, the pres­ence of ground­wa­ter, etc.

When cal­cu­lat­ing and order­ing mate­r­i­al, it is also rec­om­mend­ed to con­tact spe­cial­ists. It can be dif­fi­cult for a non-pro­fes­sion­al to inde­pen­dent­ly cal­cu­late the quan­ti­ty and qual­i­ty of the nec­es­sary build­ing mate­ri­als. In the event that you apply for the deliv­ery of wood direct­ly to the sup­pli­er, he, of course, can inde­pen­dent­ly cal­cu­late and bring the required amount, how­ev­er, in this case, defec­tive mate­r­i­al also comes across, which will lead to loss of funds and slow down con­struc­tion. Expert advice here will be indis­pens­able.

Are there standards for building a house from a bar?

The loca­tion of a house made of tim­ber is an impor­tant stage in con­struc­tion, and there are stan­dards here. These include:

– Account­ing for the ter­rain, the pres­ence of a slope, ground­wa­ter, the nature of the soil, etc.;
- If there is a slope on the ter­ri­to­ry, then the house should be locat­ed on a hill, which will pro­tect the build­ing from ground­wa­ter and pre­cip­i­ta­tion;
- It is nec­es­sary to think over the issue of sum­ming up com­mu­ni­ca­tions in advance;
- When build­ing a house, all fire safe­ty require­ments must be met.

In addi­tion, today there are rules that must be observed with­out fail:

– The min­i­mum dis­tance from a house made of tim­ber to a stone dwelling is 10 meters;
- There must be at least 15 meters between a house made of tim­ber and neigh­bor­ing wood­en hous­es;
- Dis­tance to the neigh­bor’s fence — at least 3 meters;
- The dis­tance to the red line of the street is at least 5 meters.