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A log house has many advan­tages:

• envi­ron­men­tal friend­li­ness of nat­ur­al mate­r­i­al;
• opti­mal humid­i­ty and micro­cli­mate inside the house;
• air micro­cir­cu­la­tion in the walls;
• in sum­mer the house does not heat up much, and in win­ter it keeps heat well;
• rel­a­tive­ly low cost of con­struc­tion;
• quick con­struc­tion time com­pared to hous­es made of oth­er mate­ri­als;
• inex­pen­sive and high-qual­i­ty ther­mal insu­la­tion;
• option­al inte­ri­or and exte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion, as the tim­ber itself looks good.

Step-by-step instructions for building a house from a bar

Step 1. Planning and material selection

You can cre­ate a house plan your­self or find a typ­i­cal project on the Inter­net, where var­i­ous options are offered. If an indi­vid­ual approach is desired, please con­tact the design office.

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An impor­tant stage of con­struc­tion is the choice of mate­r­i­al, since the qual­i­ty and strength of the build­ing depend on it. The opti­mal cross-sec­tion of the beam: 100 by 150 and 150 by 150 mm. It is bet­ter to choose conif­er­ous trees. The beam can be ordi­nary, pro­filed and glued.

An ordi­nary tim­ber con­tains nat­ur­al mois­ture, so it will be sub­ject to dry­ing, crack­ing and defor­ma­tion.

The pro­filed beam is made of sol­id wood and has grooves for con­nec­tion with oth­er beams.

Glued lam­i­nat­ed tim­ber is a glued piece of conif­er­ous wood. This bar also has mount­ing grooves.

It is best to choose pro­filed and glued beams that have been dried. They will be some­what more expen­sive, but they guar­an­tee high-qual­i­ty and fast con­struc­tion.

Step 2. Installing the foundation

Usu­al­ly a log house is not too heavy a struc­ture, so a light­weight foun­da­tion can be used. There are the fol­low­ing options for such a foun­da­tion:

• mono­lith­ic tape (it is used when it is planned to build a base­ment or cel­lar in the house);
• colum­nar foun­da­tion (pil­lars are made of con­crete blocks and are installed along the perime­ter and the loca­tion of the bear­ing walls at a dis­tance of 1.5 meters);
• pile-screw (this pre­fab­ri­cat­ed met­al struc­ture is used on loose and wet soils);
• slab mono­lith­ic foun­da­tion (when using it, the cost of arrang­ing the floor is not required).

The most com­mon­ly used strip foun­da­tion, which involves the fol­low­ing work:

• the site is cleared and marked;
• under all load-bear­ing walls, a trench is dug some­what wider than the thick­ness of the walls;
• sand and grav­el 10–15 cm high are poured into the bot­tom of the trench, soaked with water and com­pact­ed;
• instal­la­tion of wood­en form­work is being done;
• rein­force­ment is installed and con­crete is poured.

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Step 3. Building the walls and floor

Before erect­ing walls, the foun­da­tion should be water­proofed. To do this, a roof­ing mate­r­i­al is laid on a lay­er of bitu­men.

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Under the first crown it is nec­es­sary to place a lay­ing board. The ini­tial lay­er of beams and the lay­ing board must be pre-treat­ed with an anti­sep­tic. The base crown is made in half a tree.

Before lay­ing the next lay­er of beams, it is required to lay a heater, which is fixed with a sta­pler. The beams are fas­tened togeth­er with wood­en dow­els. The top beam is drilled through, and the bot­tom half. Nagel is dri­ven into the result­ing hole. The rec­om­mend­ed dis­tance between them is about 1.5 meters.

Spe­cial bars (logs) intend­ed for lay­ing floor boards are installed after lay­ing the first and sec­ond crowns. Logs are laid either on the base­ment of the house, or cut into the first crown at a dis­tance of 0.4–0.7 meters. Then the roll boards and the water­proof­ing lay­er are laid. The next lay­er between the lags is a heat-insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al, after it is a vapor bar­ri­er lay­er. And final­ly, the instal­la­tion of the floor.

Inter­nal walls are installed after the con­struc­tion of the main box. This is nec­es­sary, as they crash into the main walls.

Step 4. Installing door and window openings

Door and win­dow open­ings can be mount­ed in two ways. The first is that the bars are ini­tial­ly laid so that a win­dow or door can fit into the result­ing open­ing. In this case, on both sides of the open­ing, the bars are fas­tened with dow­els. This is quite labo­ri­ous, more­over, in the process of dry­ing the wood, the open­ing will increase, which must be tak­en into account ini­tial­ly.

The sec­ond method is less labor inten­sive. The space for a win­dow or door is sawn out after the wall has been erect­ed and the tim­ber has dried. But in this case, loss­es in the build­ing mate­r­i­al are inevitable. Win­dows and doors should be installed last, when the wood is com­plete­ly dry and warp­ing is not pos­si­ble. The tim­ber frame is installed in ready-made open­ings. The design of win­dows and doors is fur­ther attached to it.

Step 5. Building the roof

In hous­es made of tim­ber, the roof is most often made gable or bro­ken. This allows you to equip a com­fort­able attic, which makes the home built with your own hands even more attrac­tive.

Roof con­struc­tion starts on the ground. It is here that pairs of rafter legs are assem­bled and con­nect­ed by puffs. After that, the result­ing rigid struc­ture is installed on the roof. Two ped­i­ments are cre­at­ed by installing two extreme pairs of rafter legs. The ped­i­ments are con­nect­ed by a ridge beam.

Then the instal­la­tion of the fol­low­ing rafter pairs is car­ried out at a dis­tance of about 0.9 meters from each oth­er. The rafters are cov­ered with a vapor bar­ri­er, which is fixed with a sta­pler and fixed on top with spe­cial rails that are nailed to the rafters.

After that, the crate is stuffed in incre­ments of about 0.4 meters. Then a coat­ing of soft roll mate­r­i­al is made. The final step is the lay­ing of the roof. You can use dif­fer­ent mate­r­i­al as its qual­i­ty improves and, accord­ing­ly, ris­es in price: roof­ing mate­r­i­al (from 15 rubles per sq. Meter), slate (from 100 rubles per sq. Meter), ondulin (from 260 rubles per sq. Meter), met­al tile (from 300 rubles per sq. meter), flex­i­ble tiles (from 300 rubles per sq. meter), cor­ru­gat­ed board (from 300 rubles per sq. meter), wood­en tiles (from 800 rubles per sq. meter).

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From the inside, the roof requires good insu­la­tion. For this pur­pose, ther­mal insu­la­tion mate­r­i­al is laid between the lags. A vapor bar­ri­er film is attached to the bot­tom. After that, the ceil­ing can be hemmed with clap­board.

Step 6. Internal and external work

If glued lam­i­nat­ed tim­ber was used dur­ing the con­struc­tion of the house, then inte­ri­or and exte­ri­or fin­ish­ing can be car­ried out imme­di­ate­ly. In the case when oth­er mate­ri­als were used, you should wait up to six months for the house to shrink.

The cracks and cracks formed as a result of shrink­age must be caulked and sealed with mas­tic.

If the house is made of glued and pro­filed tim­ber, then you can do with­out inte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion, since the source mate­r­i­al already looks beau­ti­ful. If an ordi­nary tim­ber was used, then it should be sand­ed, and then var­nished or paint­ed.

Exte­ri­or dec­o­ra­tion also main­ly con­cerns a house built from ordi­nary tim­ber. In this case, you can use vinyl sid­ing, lin­ing and oth­er build­ing mate­ri­als.

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Expert advice

Popular questions and answers

Pavel Bunin, own­er of the bath com­plex“Ban­sk”:

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