[ad_1]

Own­ers of pri­vate build­ings expe­ri­ence the great­est need for a fence. So far, as in Europe or the USA, we have not been able to over­come the desire to iso­late our­selves from our neigh­bors. On the oth­er hand, by build­ing a fence, you can feel rel­a­tive­ly safe. In addi­tion, this is a way to delim­it the ter­ri­to­ry and in the future to avoid land con­flicts on the same street. Togeth­er with experts, we tell you how to make a fence with your own hands: we present step-by-step instruc­tions for build­ing.

Cor­ru­gat­ed fence

Deck­ing is one of the most pop­u­lar fenc­ing mate­ri­als.

Step by step instructions for building a fence

Define the boundaries of your site

- And there can be no talk to advance at least 100 mm beyond its lim­its. The fence line, name­ly its front side, must strict­ly cor­re­spond to the bound­ary of the site. What hap­pens if you take an extra 100–300 mm? You can be vis­it­ed by rep­re­sen­ta­tives of the fire depart­ment, the plan­ning and devel­op­ment com­mit­tee of urban and rur­al set­tle­ments, rep­re­sen­ta­tives of the land com­mit­tee. The inspec­tion will oblige you to remove the fence from the ter­ri­to­ry that does not belong to you. In addi­tion, it will impose sanc­tions and fines on the fact of mis­ap­pro­pri­a­tion,” says the author of the project for the con­struc­tion of ener­gy-effi­cient pri­vate hous­es using iHouse Ter­mo­Plus tech­nol­o­gy Oleg Kuzmichev.

There may also be prob­lems with neigh­bors. There­fore, the first step for those who decide to make a fence with their own hands will be the need to clear­ly ascer­tain the bound­aries of their site. This is easy to do: you need to call sur­vey­ors. If there are neigh­bors, it is advis­able to car­ry out the pro­ce­dure in their pres­ence.

>

>

Talk to neighbors

We are for world peace, but when build­ing a fence, the frag­ile par­i­ty of good neigh­bor­li­ness may col­lapse. So that lat­er there are no resent­ments and mutu­al claims, dis­cuss the future design of your fence.

- A fence adja­cent to neigh­bors can be no more than 1500 mm high and with trans­paren­cy from 50 to 100%. The mate­r­i­al should not heat the area of ​​​​neigh­bors (this hap­pens when using iron — approx. ed.), do not store excess mois­ture (con­crete or brick are capa­ble of this — approx. ed.) and not be tox­ic or haz­ardous to health. Also, your fence should not obscure the neigh­bors’ plot, — shares Oleg Kuzmichev.

Although you decide to build a fence with your own hands, try to nego­ti­ate with your neigh­bors and share part of the cost of the fence. After all, the adja­cent fence is a com­mon bound­ary between the plots.

Choosing a fence design and materials

We pro­ceed from our finan­cial capa­bil­i­ties. A rather expen­sive and most reli­able option is using screw or bored piles. No less high-qual­i­ty fences on a strip foun­da­tion, but the mate­r­i­al is very capri­cious for soil heav­ing. In this case, it will not work out cheap­ly and it is bet­ter to hire spe­cial­ists. In the future, brick pil­lars are placed on the foun­da­tion and inserts made of WPC (wood-poly­mer com­pos­ites) are attached. All this, of course, is aes­thet­i­cal­ly pleas­ing and expen­sive.

But if you intend to get by with small finan­cial loss­es, then you should turn to a pro­filed sheet, a chain-link mesh or a met­al pick­et fence. Mate­ri­als are attached to the met­al frame of the fence.

Depend­ing on the choice of mate­r­i­al, it is nec­es­sary to take into account the blow­ing of the fence and the abil­i­ty to with­stand wind loads. Pho­to: shutterstock.com — Depend­ing on the choice of mate­r­i­al, it is nec­es­sary to take into account the blow­ing of the fence and the abil­i­ty to with­stand wind loads. If you take a fence from a chain-link mesh, then such a fence does not car­ry any wind load. In this case, the pitch of the pil­lars (sup­ports) can be increased up to 3 m, the cross sec­tion of the pil­lar is suf­fi­cient 50 * 50 mm with a wall thick­ness of 2 mm. When using a pro­filed sheet on the fence, the sec­tion of the post is from 60 * 60 to 80 * 80 mm with a wall thick­ness of 2 to 3 mm, the dis­tance between the posts is from 2 to 2.5 m. If the site is locat­ed in an open field, I rec­om­mend reduc­ing the dis­tance to 2 meters, — said the expert “Kom­so­mol­skaya Prav­da”.

In prac­tice, it is not always pos­si­ble to strict­ly main­tain the dis­tance between the pil­lars. After all, if you take the dis­tance between the extreme points on one side of the fence, it is not always a mul­ti­ple. To do this, you need to go with a tape mea­sure, mea­sure the dis­tance and divide it mul­ti­ple­ly in the direc­tion of decreas­ing the dis­tance between the posts. Then cal­cu­late how many columns you need.

We choose exact­ly the square sec­tion of the pil­lars for the fence frame — it is much more reli­able than round ones. The weld site knot will be stronger and look more aes­thet­i­cal­ly pleas­ing.

Choosing the depth of the foundation for the fence according to the type of soil

For heavy clays, loams, quick­sands, the posi­tion of the low­er sup­port point is select­ed below the freez­ing lev­el by 200 … 300 mm. If we con­sid­er the exam­ple of Moscow and the Moscow region, then the depth of the pil­lar pit is 1500 mm. In your region, it is bet­ter to check with spe­cial­ists who are engaged in con­struc­tion.

For non-rocky soils (sandy, sandy-stony, stony, and also — at a low lev­el of ground­wa­ter — light loams), the depth of the pit for the fence post is deter­mined as 600‑1200 mm. But you need to take into account the wind load. Experts rec­om­mend a pit (pit) depth of 1500 mm.

>

>

On swampy soils, fences on screw piles are mount­ed — only they will ensure a sta­ble posi­tion of the struc­ture with suf­fi­cient depth, which in such cas­es is cal­cu­lat­ed indi­vid­u­al­ly, based on geo­log­i­cal sur­vey data of the site.

Know­ing the length of the recessed part of the col­umn, add it to the top, we get the total length.

- Please note that the length of the whips (pil­lars between which the mate­r­i­al is attached — ed.), most­ly 3–6 meters. In each case, cuts must be tak­en into account. From scraps, you can, of course, weld the desired length of the post, but this is addi­tion­al labor. Exam­ple: we cut off 3500 mm from a six-meter whip, in the remain­der — 2500 mm, — says Oleg Kuzmichev.

We define a profile connecting horizontally fence posts

The best option is a square pro­file 20 * 40 mm with a wall thick­ness of 1.5 mm. As a rule, two hor­i­zon­tal veins are installed, con­nect­ing the pil­lars with each oth­er with a fence height of up to two meters.

— But I would rec­om­mend installing three hor­i­zon­tal veins. The low­er and upper ones, as an exam­ple, are 50 mm from the low­er and upper edges of the pro­filed sheet, the third vein is approx­i­mate­ly in the cen­ter. Two extreme veins do not allow the pro­filed sheet to deform at the edges, while many often met bro­ken upper and low­er parts of the fence. The use of the third vein makes the fence more aes­thet­ic, reli­able, durable and resis­tant to wind loads,” says our expert.

If the height of the fence is more than two meters, then the third vein is required.

For those who have agreed with a neigh­bor to share the costs of the fence frame: hor­i­zon­tal veins are not installed over the walls of the pil­lars, but between the pil­lars, butt weld­ed to them. You can attach a pro­filed sheet or pick­et fence to each for your part. Does the own­er of the site have a fence fac­ing the facade? In this case, you can eas­i­ly make a beau­ti­ful fence both from the out­side of the site and from the inside. Of course, the square pro­file must match the thick­ness of the sec­tion of the fence pipe or weld hor­i­zon­tal veins on both sides.

How to build a house

Many peo­ple think that it is cheap­er and bet­ter to build a house with their own hands, rather than buy­ing a ready-made one.

Going to buy building materials

Go to a con­struc­tion yard or find a com­pa­ny that retails fenc­ing mate­ri­als in your area. Mon­i­tor sev­er­al prices on the mar­ket — there is an oppor­tu­ni­ty to find a good deal.

We start construction with waterproofing pillars

The first step is water­proof­ing the pil­lars at the bot­tom. This is done with bitu­mi­nous mas­tic, rub­ber-bitu­men mate­r­i­al or poly­mer insu­la­tion. All of them are sold in hard­ware stores. To decide on the option, read the instruc­tions for use on the pack­age and decide which prod­uct is more con­ve­nient for you to apply.

We outline the fence

The cord is pulled from the extreme points. Before pro­ceed­ing with the instal­la­tion, in the places of the planned loca­tion of the main load-bear­ing ele­ments of the fence, holes are drilled with a depth exceed­ing the size of the recessed part — 1500 mm. To pre­vent sub­si­dence to the bot­tom of the pit, a lay­er of grav­el or crushed stone 50–70 mm thick is laid in them, which is care­ful­ly com­pact­ed. Next, the extreme pil­lars are set, using the lev­el, the ver­ti­cal is checked.

>

>

We concrete the base

In recent years, pil­lars have been increas­ing­ly con­cret­ed. Although you can do with­out it. The tech­nol­o­gy, which involves con­cret­ing fence posts, allows you to make a more reli­able foun­da­tion. Fur­ther, inter­me­di­ate posts are installed along the cord or along the align­ment. A laser lev­el or a water lev­el is also used to install pil­lars along the hori­zon.

After installing the pil­lars with con­cret­ing, you can pour a tape on top — a rein­forced con­crete fence with holes for the pil­lars. The tape pre­vents ani­mals from dig­ging under the fence, the ser­vice life of the fence increas­es, and aes­thet­i­cal­ly it looks much more pleas­ant.

A day or two after con­cret­ing the pil­lars, you can prime and paint the met­al frame of the fence.

Fence installation

If we stopped on a pro­filed sheet, then we mount hor­i­zon­tal veins, on which we fas­ten the pan­els with roof­ing screws. In the case of oth­er mate­r­i­al, install them. For exam­ple, the chain-link is first unwound and then pulled near the poles. You can pre­vent its sag­ging by stretch­ing the car­ri­er wire. For high fences from two meters, the oper­a­tion is per­formed in two places: above and below.

The best chain­saws

Nowa­days, few peo­ple saw trees and logs by hand: this work is mech­a­nized.

Expert advice

We have pre­pared detailed step-by-step instruc­tions for build­ing a fence with your own hands. In this sec­tion, we pub­lish some more tips from experts that will help in con­struc­tion.

Popular questions and answers

>

>