Insulation of entrance doors

Insulation of entrance doorsWith the onset of cold weath­er, the prob­lem of drafts in the apart­ment becomes espe­cial­ly rel­e­vant. After all, no mat­ter how hot the bat­ter­ies are, a draft will still draw out all the heat. A warm front door is an impor­tant part of main­tain­ing heat in a res­i­den­tial area. Con­sid­er what can be done so that the front door pro­vides good pro­tec­tion not only from strangers, but also from drafts.
If the door is very old, it can sim­ply be replaced with a new one. Ide­al­ly, a full dou­ble. The dou­ble door unit con­sists of one box, to which two door leafs are attached at once. Such a block does not occur often, but in vain. A dou­ble door should not be con­fused with a dou­ble door, they are com­plete­ly dif­fer­ent things. A new door with a dou­ble block is, of course, good, but not always pos­si­ble, and not always nec­es­sary. What else can be done? Put a sec­ond door, very sim­ple, thus cre­at­ing a small vestibule. Many have done this in the past. It can be installed both out­side and inside. The main thing is not to for­get about the thresh­old and com­paction. (Rec­om­mend car­tons for pack­ing)


If a draft is felt around the perime­ter of the door, then you need to elim­i­nate the gaps between the dense door and the door frame. To do this, a foam or rub­ber seal is sold in spe­cial­ized depart­ments of the store. Self-adhe­sive rub­ber will be more prac­ti­cal. The glu­ing tech­nique is the same as for the win­dow seal: clean and degrease the sur­face and stick the seal. You can apply a dou­ble blow to the draft — stick the seal on both the door frame and the door itself. An impor­tant point: both seals — on the door and on the door frame should fit snug­ly against each oth­er. It will not be super­flu­ous to check the ser­vice­abil­i­ty of the fit­tings, because the door can sim­ply sag due to loose screws or deformed hinges. Every­thing that is loose will need to be tight­ened, and the deformed one will need to be replaced. The door itself may also be deformed. If the wood­en door is swollen with high humid­i­ty and stops clos­ing, you can sim­ply cut it with a plan­er.
If it comes through from the gaps between the open­ing and the door frame, you will have to replace the worn seal. To do this, you need to remove the door slopes, remove the remain­ing old seal, fill the exist­ing space with a new one (as a rule, mount­ing foam is used as a new seal) and return the slopes to their place.
If it blows from the door itself, it can be insu­lat­ed using heat-insu­lat­ing mate­ri­als. Pre­vi­ous­ly, they used cot­ton wool, syn­thet­ic win­ter­iz­er or foam rub­ber. Cur­rent­ly, you can use mod­ern heat-insu­lat­ing mate­ri­als — penoizol, isolon, foamed poly­eth­yl­ene. Well, if the insu­la­tion is heat-reflect­ing, if not, it would be wise to use a met­al­lized film. Dec­o­ra­tive uphol­stery is nec­es­sar­i­ly attached over the sealant — vinyl, eco-leather, leatherette.
In a met­al door, you can fill the exist­ing inter­nal voids with heat-insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al. As a heater, you can use cor­ru­gat­ed card­board, min­er­al wool, poly­styrene foam, foam rub­ber, expand­ed poly­styrene, foamed polyurethane. To do this, install embed­ded bars (a dec­o­ra­tive pan­el will sub­se­quent­ly be attached to them), we foam the gaps between the met­al and the embed­ded bars, lay the sealant and foam the remain­ing gaps, let the mount­ing foam hard­en, remove the excess, put the dec­o­ra­tive pan­el in place.
It is not so impor­tant whether the front door is new or old, it is impor­tant that it pro­tects the inte­ri­or from any unnec­es­sary pen­e­tra­tion — no mat­ter whether it is an annoy­ing sales­man or an equal­ly annoy­ing draft.